2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN Recalls, Complaints & Safety

The vehicle was idle for about 4 months. I took it to a carwash to clean the dust off. Upon returning (abt a 2 mile trip) the brakes failed and steam was coming out from under the hood. I opened the hood and brake fluid was sprayed all over the driver's side of the engine and wheel well. A brake line had rusted through and burst. Fortunately, I made it home carefully because I had noticed the brakes were soft.

This vehicle has less than 84,000 miles on it, and the chassis or frame is rotted. The rear anti sway bar already rotted off it, and the front bar is hanging down on the passenger side. I have photos of this, but don't know how to download them. The body has a little rot here, and there, but that is repairable. I spent a lot of money in purchasing this vehicle, and I expected it to last a very long time. The interior is almost like new. I am thinking about putting a tort claim about this to GM. Please help me all you can. I forgot to write that I also spent extra money for it to be undercoated, and it is supposed to be a lifetime warranty. I called that company, and they said it was only for 10 years. When I buy a new vehicle, I expect it to last.

Air bag sensors went out making air bag inoperable.

Speedometer stops working intermittently. This is a safety hazard as the operator cannot tell the speed that the vehicle is operating. It seems to occur randomly.

This defect pertains to gear indicator on the instrument panel. During the daylight hours the light indicating the gear the car is in (park, neutral, drive, etc.) is impossible to read. At night you can just barely read the gear indicators. The dimness of the lights behind this gear indicator gauge is a safety hazard because you cannot tell what gear you are in during the day. It is an expensive repair because the instrument panel needs to be removed to fix the problem.

The contact owns a 2005 Chevrolet Suburban. The contact stated upon taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic for tire replacement, he was informed that the entire chassis was severely corroded. The dealer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the manufacturer for assistance. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 84,000.

Started with driver side heated seat randomly turning on and off. Going from high, medium, low. No way to turn it off just comes back on. Can hear clicking coming from under dash. Lift gate wiring that goes into body, ground wire burnt. (Replaced) but ground wire has power. (Wiring issue) so rear wiper doesn’t work. “Reading” Lamps only work when door is open. After replacing life gate connector, says lift gate open. Started the repair, which leads to more wiring issues! Needs a recall! Unsafe

The speedometer issue started 1 year ago, the speedometer shows needle stuck on 0 or all the way down to right side. Now issues with the gas gauge and oil gauge are happening also Mechanic has checked on this and stated that replacement needed.

Heated seats randomly turn on and off and goes thorugh the diffeent levels of heat and then off and then back on repeat for hours while driving and is very distracting as have to turn off every 10 sec and have almost crashed multiple times taking me eyes off the road but have to turn off as heat is too much in summer months, this is a known issue in almost ever suburban 01 to 05, how is this not a recall yet, there is massive amount of documentation of this issue online.

Gear status indicator does not display selected gear.

THE WIRING FOR THE LIGHTERS, POWER PORTS AND COMPUTER LINK MELTED. IT'S ALL PART OF THE UNDER-DASH WIRING HARNESS.

TRUCK DOOR IS NOT OPENING, FUEL GAS DEFECTIVE, REAR LIGHT SYSTEM HAS ELECTRICAL PROBLEM ALL THE TIMES, A/C SYSTEM ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.

OIL PUMP OIL RINGS TO LEAD TO OIL PICKUP TUBE FAILED CAUSING DROP IN OIL PRESSURE. THIS HAPPENS WHEN DRIVING VEHICLE 2 HOURS PLUS.

AIR CONDITIONING WILL RANDOMLY SWITCH TO HOT AIR WHILE DRIVING. IF YOU STOP AND RESTART THE CAR AIR CONDITIONING WILL WORK AGAIN.

FIRST THE TRANSMISSION FAILED RIGHT AFTER I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE 2 YEARS AGO. I HAD TO BUY A NEW TRANSMISSION THAT WASN'T CHEAP AROUND $3,500. THEN THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS STARTED WITH THE RIGHT SIDE LAST YEAR JUST HAD A TON OF PLAY IN IT MY MECHANIC FOUND IT WHEN LIFTING UP MY TRUCK FOR A TIRE ROTATION. THEN THE LEFT FRONT WHEEL BEARING JUST STARTED MAKING A LOAD ROARING NOISE BUT HAD NO PLAY IN IT AT ALL THAT I COULD FEEL WHEN CHECKING IT OUT. BOTH COST AROUND $250 A WHEEL TO REPLACE. NOW MY 5.3 LITER ENGINE IS HAVING A KNOCKING SOUND WHEN AT A STOP AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 30 MINUTES OR WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. ALSO I AM HEARING A SLIGHT TICKING SOUND FROM THE ENGINE COLD OR HOT. I HAVE 4 SMALL KIDS SO I NEED A VERY RELIABLE LARGE VEHICLE AND THIS IS SUBURBAN IS DRIVING ME AND MY WIFE CRAZY HAVING TO POOR MONEY IN THIS VEHICLE EVERY YEAR. I AM THE SOIL PROVIDER FOR MY FAMILY I CANT AFFORD PUTTING ALL MY MONEY INTO A VEHICLE LIKE THIS.

ON 4/11/2020, WHILE TRAVELING NORTHBOUND ON N. MAIN STREET, FAYETTEVILLE, NC AND ACCELERATING FROM THE STOPLIGHT AT THE INTERSECTION OF CAMDEN ROAD, I WAS REQUIRED TO APPLY THE BRAKES FORCEFULLY AND SUDDENLY DUE TO THE ACTIONS OF ANOTHER MOTORIST. ALMOST IMMEDIATELY AFTER APPLYING THE BRAKES, I LOST ALL BRAKING POWER AND RESORTED TO UTILIZING THE MANUAL PARKING BRAKE TO BRING THE VEHICLE UNDER CONTROL AND DRIVE IT CAREFULLY BACK TO MY RESIDENCE. AT THE MOMENT OF FAILURE, THE DASHBOARD BRAKE INDICATOR LIGHT (AKA, IDIOT LIGHT) ILLUMINATED AND A "SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM" MESSAGE APPEARED ON THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. THE BRAKE INDICATOR LIGHT CONTINUED TO ILLUMINATE SPORADICALLY DURING THE TRIP BACK TO MY RESIDENCE WHEN TESTING THE BRAKE PEDAL FOR RESUMED FUNCTIONALITY. AFTER ARRIVING HOME, I PERFORMED A QUICK INSPECTION OF THE BRAKING SYSTEM AND FOUND THAT THE PORTION OF THE BRAKES LINES LOCATED ON THE OUTBOARD PORTION OF THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRAME RAIL HAD RUSTED AND PERFORATED NEAR THE ABS MODULE, CAUSING THE FAILURE ALONG WITH MASSIVE FLUID LOSS (SEE ATTACHED PICS). I PERFORMED A CURSORY INTERNET SEARCH AND DISCOVERED THAT THE NHTSA HAS ALREADY PERFORMED AN INVESTIGATION INTO THIS EXACT ISSUE AND THE INVESTIGATION WAS SUBSEQUENTLY CLOSED WITH NO RECALL ISSUED BY GM. OF NOTE, GM VEHICLES USE A MANUAL PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH LOCATED WITHIN THE BRAKE COMBINATION VALVE THAT ISOLATES THE DAMAGED CIRCUIT IN THE EVENT OF FAILURE AND ALSO ILLUMINATES THE DASHBOARD BRAKE LIGHT. THIS SYSTEM DID NOT OPERATE IN THIS INSTANCE AS EVIDENCED BY LOSING ALL BRAKING, AS OPPOSED TO REDUCED BRAKING, AS WELL AS THE BRAKE LIGHT NOT REMAINING ILLUMINATED. BASED ON THE APPEARANCE OF THE UNDERCARRIAGE AND INDICATION OF RUST IN SEVERAL SPOTS ON THE BODY (E.G, TAILGATE), I BELIEVE THIS TRUCK WAS OPERATED IN ONE OF THE RUST BELT STATES FOR A PERIOD OF TIME BY A PRIOR OWNER.

BRAKES GAVE OUT SUDDENLY WITHOUT WARNING.CHEVY DEALER SAID LINES ARE RUSTED AND NEED REPLACE AT COST OF $1600.ALSO JUST REPLACED STEERING GEAR BOX PITMAN ARM AND IDLER ARM AND WHEEL BEARING HUB AT A COST OF $2300 BECAUSE YOUR NUTS ON THE STEERING ASSEMBLY HAVE A TENDENCY TO COME OFF.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN. WHILE DRIVING 20 MPH, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED AND TRAVELED TO THE FLOORBOARD. THE CONTACT HAD TO APPLY THE EMERGENCY BRAKE AND VEERED THE VEHICLE TO THE SHOULDER OF THE ROAD, WHICH ALLOWED THE VEHICLE TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED BY ONSTAR TO DENOOYER CHEVROLET (127 WOLF RD, ALBANY, NY 12205, (518) 458-7700) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE BRAKE LINES NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 111,795.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE EXPRESSWAY WHEN I HAD TO APPLY A STRONG FORCE TO THE BRAKES IN ORDER TO AVOID HITTING A VEHICLE. SIMULTANEOUSLY, THE SURBURBAN BRAKES BECAME VERY STIFF AND I LOST POWER STEERING AT THE SAME TIME. AFTER APPLYING AN EXTREME EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF FORCE I WAS ABLE TO STOP THE VEHICLE AND AVOID AN ACCIDENT. I HAD TO FIND THE NEAREST EXIT AND WHILE DOING SO IT WAS EXTREMELY HARD TO MAKE A 15 DEGREE TURN AND ALSO EXTREMELY HARD TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. IT WAS VERY DANGEROUS AND I WAS SCARED FOR MY LIFE. I TOLD A MECHANIC ABOUT THIS AND HE SAID IT SOUND LIKE A BAD HYDRO BOOSTER. I LOOKED IT UP ONLINE AND SAW THAT THERE WAS A RECALL ON IT. WHEN I LOOKED IT UP IT SAID 0 OPEN. THIS IS DEFINITELY A SAFETY ISSUE. PLEASE HELP!.

THE 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 2500 WAS TRAVELING ON A CITY STREET AND THE BRAKES BECAME SOFT INSTANTLY, A COLLISION WAS AVOIDED BY STEERING AWAY FROM THE CARS AT THE INTERSECTION AND THE EMERGENCY BRAKE WAS USED. THERE WAS NO WARNING ON THE SUDDEN FAILURE, OTHER THAN A INDICATOR ON THE DASH. A SHORT DRIVE TO THE HOME DRIVEWAY, THE REMAINING BRAKE FLUID HAS ALL LEAKED OUT UNDER THE DRIVERS DOOR LOCATION.

IN MOTION ON CITY AND HIGHWAY

DRIVER SIDE SEAT HEATER RANDOMLY COMES ON AND GOES OFF. MAJORITY OF THE TIME THE HEATER STAYS ON CONSTANTLY AND BECOMES UNCOMFORTABLE. THIS HAPPENS MORE ESPECIALLY IN WET CONDITIONS AND WHEN YOU ATTEMPT TO TURN THE HEATED SEAT OFF, THE CONTROLS WON'T WORK. THIS ISSUE HAPPENS WHEN THE SUV IS STARTED, CONTINUES WHILE IDLING AND WHILE DRIVING. SOME DAYS IT IS HOURS BEFORE IT WILL GO OFF. OTHER DAYS IT WILL NOT GO OFF. THE SCARY THING IS YOU CAN HEAR THE DASHBOARD CLICKING WHEN THE HEATER TURNS ON AND OFF, CONSTANTLY CYCLING THOUGH HIGH TO LOW, BACK OF SEAT TO BOTTOM OF THE SEAT. ADJUSTING THE SEAT IN ANY WAY DOES NOT HELP. I THINK THIS IS A CONCERN DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT TURNS OFF AND ON AND YOU CAN HEAR IT CYCLE THROUGH. IT'S ALSO A MAJOR CONCERN BECAUSE THE HEAT STAYS ON WITHOUT ANY WAY TO TURN IT OFF. THIS STARTED A WEEK AFTER I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE AND HAS CONTINUED SINCE OCTOBER 2016.

THE FUEL LINE THAT IS ON TOP OF THE GAS TANK ROTTED THROUGH. THE BRAKE AND TRANSMISSION LINES ROTTED AND LEAKED. THE CHASSIS IS ROTTING IN DIFFERENT PLACES I HAVE LESS THAN 77,000 MILES ON IT SINCE I BOUGHT NEW. I HAVE A 1969 MALIBU THAT I'VE HAD SINCE IT WAS NEW AND I KEEP IT OUTSIDE IN ALL KINDS OF WEATHER AND NOT ONE PART OF THE CHASSIS IS ROTTED. I DON'T KNOW WHAT KIND OF STEEL THEY USE NOW TO BUILD THESE CARS AND TRUCKS, BUT IT SHOULD BE UNACCEPTABLE. I DON'T KNOW THE EXACT DATES THESE THINGS HAPPENED, BUT I DO HAVE ALL THE REPAIR BILLS FOR THEM. WHEN THE BRAKE LINE ROTTED THROUGH I WAS GOING TO THE STORE AND WHEN I CAME TO A YIELD SIGN THE BRAKE PEDAL WHET TO THE FLOOR. IT'S A GOOD THING IT HAPPENED THEN, BECAUSE I LIVE ON A MOUNTAIN AND WE HAVE A ROAD CALLED BREAKNECK AND IT IS A 25% GRADE. IT WAS RAINING THE DAY THAT THIS HAPPENED AND ALL I HAD WAS A LITTLE BIT OF FOOT BRAKE AND THE EMERGENCY BRAKE. I SURELY WOULD HAVE HAD A BAD ACCIDENT IF I MADE IT TO THAT HILL.

ONE MORNING CAME OUT TO START MY 2005 SUBURBAN AND THE SERVICE AIRBAG MESSAGE POPPED ON ALONG WITH THE AIRBAG LIGHT. TOOK IT TO MY SERVICE CENTER AND WAS TOLD IT WAS A FRONT IMPACT SENSOR. WAS ALSO TOLD THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM ON THESE VEHICLES. AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH ONLINE I HAVE FOUND THIS TO BE A VERY COMMON PROBLEM RENDERING THE AIRBAG SYSTEM INOP. I BELIEVE GM NEEDS TO STEP UP AND FIX THE ISSUE WITH THE SENSORS AS NOT EVERYONE HAS $400 TO FIX A FAULTY SENSOR. THE ODOMETER ON MY SUBURBAN IS 127,000 MILES, SO BY NO MEANS DRIVEN HARD.

IT WOULDN'T LET ME PICK TIRES I HAVE A SET OF 4 BRIDGESTONE DEULER H/L AND THE TIRES HAVE 2 TIRES HAVE 6/32 OF TREAD AND THE OTHER 2 HAD 8/32 AND ON ALL 4 TIRES THE BELTS ARE SEPARATING !!! I USED TO HAVE A CDL LICENSE AND DRIVE TOW TRUCKS AND IF I GOT PULLED OVER BY THE STATE WHETHER IT BE BY D.O.T. OR STATE POLICE I WOULD RECEIVE TICKETS AND POSSIBLY BE STUCK AT WEIGH STATION WAITING FOR A TIRE REPAIR SERVICE TO SHOW UP !!

REAR BRAKE LINE FAILED. MY WIFE AND KIDS WERE IN THE 2005 SUBURBAN 1500, SHE MANAGED TO PRESS THE EBRAKE THEN TURN THE SUBURBAN INTO SOMEONE'S FRONT YARD WHERE IT EVENTUALLY CAME TO REST ON A HILL. SHE WAS HEADED DOWNHILL ON A RESIDENTIAL STREET AT THE TIME OF FAILURE. TOOK TO HUNDRU CHEV IN MANHEIM PA I WAS TOLD THE REPAIR WILL BE SOMEWHERE AROUND $2300.00

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO USE THE REAR HATCH OF THE VEHICLE, THE REAR HATCH FAILED TO OPEN. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 136,210.

WHILE DRIVING THE DRIVER SIDE HEATED SEATS INGAUGE BY THEMSELVES AND COME ON EVERY TIME WE USE THE VEHICLE. WE HAVE TRIED TURNING THEM BACK OFF, BUT THEY COME RIGHT BACK ON AND WILL CYCLE UP AND DOWN A FEW TIMES THEN STAY IN THE HIGH POSITION. I THOUGHT AT FIRST THAT MY HUSBAND WAS ACCIDENTALLY TURNING THEM ON BUT HE WASN'T. IT DOES IT ALL THE TIME. THERE IS NO RYHME OR REASON TO IT. ITS VERY DISTRACTING TRYING TO TURN THEM OFF OVER & OVER AGAIN. I COULD SEE WHERE IT COULD BE A SAFETY ISSUE. I RESEARCH END ON THE INTERNET AND HAVE SEEN HUNDREDS OF POST ON THE SAME ISSUE. NONE OF THEM HELPED WITH A SOULOUTIN TO THE PROBLEM. I PUT MY VIN # IN TO SEE IF THEIR WERE ANY RECALLS ON THIS ISSUE. AND COULDN'T FIND ONE. MY QUESTION IS WHY? WITH AS MANY COMPLAINTS AS THERE ARE ONLINE. NOT SURE IF THEY WERE NOT COMPLAINING HERE ABOUT IT BUT NOW AT LEAST I HAVE. IT DOESN'T MATTER WHOSE DRIVING IT, WHEATER ISN'T A FACTOR EITHER. IN TOWN OR HIGHWAY MAKES NO DIFFERENCE HELP PLEASE

AS I WAS ABOUT TO EXIT A PARKING LOT ONTO A FOUR LANE ROADWAY, THE BRAKES ON MY 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN FAILED. I LIVED APPROXIMATELY 1/2 MILE FROM THIS LOCATION AND PROCEEDED TO DRIVE HOME. IT WAS A LITTLE SCAREY WITHOUT ANY STOPPING POWER, EVEN THE EMERGENCY BAKE WOULD NOT HOLD. WHEN I GOT HOME, I USED A FLASHLIGHT TO TRY TO FIND THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM. FOUND A PATTERN OF BRAKE FLUID LEAKING. REMOVED THE SPARE TIRE TO GET A BETTER LOOK AND FOUND A BRAKE LINE BETWEEN THE ABS AND REAR OF THE VEHICLE HAD RUSTED OUT. FROM THE LOOKS OF THE LINE CONDITION, THEY NEED TO BE ALL REPLACED. NEVER IN MY 70 YEARS HAVE I SEEN BRAKE LINES ON A TEN YEAR OLD VEHICLE LOOK LIKE THEY DID, REALLY IN BAD SHAPE. LOOKED AT OTHER LINES, FUEL, TRANSMISSION, THEY ALL LOOKED LIKE THEY SHOULD BE REPLACED.

THE REAR LIFTGATE WILL NOT UNLOCK. THERE IS NO MANUAL RELEASE OR "KEY BYPASS" FOR THE REAR LIFTGATE LOCK. THIS PRESENTS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE IN CASE OF FIRE OR CRASH.

AFTER RUNNING VEHICLE, GAS RUNS DOWN SIDES FROM TOP OF FUEL TANK, AND DRIPS UNDER VEHICLE. CONTINUES TO DRIP IF CAR IDLES. STOPS IF CAR IS SHUT OFF. STRONG SMELL OF FUEL AFTER DRIVING VEHICLE

AIR BAG SENSOR FAILURE RENDERING THE AIRBAGS INOPERABLE.

BEGAN HEARING A "WHINING" NOISE UNDER THE VEHICLE. NOISE WAS PROGRESSIVELY LOUDER AT ACCELERATED SPEEDS. LEFT VEHICLE AT LOCAL CHEVROLET DEALER (CA) WHO DID AN INSPECTION AND DIAGNOSED A MECHANICAL ISSUE POSSIBLY WITH THE DIFFERENTIAL [REF. CLAIM CHECK 175]. SERVICE WRITER STATED ESTIMATED REPAIR COST FOR AN OVERHAUL WAS $3,000 VS. HIGHER COSTS TO REPLACE WITH USED OR NEW DIFFERENTIAL. SERVICE WRITER FURTHER INDICATED CONTINUED DRIVING COULD CAUSE FURTHER DAMAGE AND ADDED COST IF AXLE WAS ALSO AFFECTED. DECIDED TO TAKE VEHICLE TO A RECOGNIZED POWERTRAIN REPAIR FACILITY WHO DETERMINED (ALSO WITH A DRIVE TEST) THAT THE DIFFERENTIAL WAS THE PROBLEM AND GAVE INITIAL $1,200 ESTIMATE. AUTHORIZED REPAIR. FINAL COST WAS $813 AND INCLUDES 1 YEAR FULL WARRANTY. NOW RUNS SMOOTH / QUIET WHEN DRIVING. TECHNICIAN INDICATED THAT ALTHOUGH FLUID LEVEL WAS GOOD (SEALED AT FACTORY), A RING INSIDE THE DIFFERENTIAL WAS BAD (HAD BECOME PITTED AND COULD HAVE CAUSED FURTHER ISSUES IF UNCHECKED. CHANGED OUT RING AND BEARINGS BUT ALL OTHER COMPONENTS INCLUDING CASING WERE FINE. TECHNICIAN STATED SUCH WEAR IS UNCOMMON FOR A VEHICLE WITH ONLY 126K MILES AND WITH NO TOWING ON FACTORY TOW PACKAGE. IS THIS AN ANNOMILY OR ARE THERE OTHER CASES OF BAD PARTS IN DIFFERENTIAL FOR THIS MAKE / MODEL? WOULD LIKE TO DISCUSS FURTHER WITH GM ZONE REP. BUT NO RESPONSE!!!

WHILE DRIVING AROUND TOWN I NOTICED MY BRAKES FEELING MUSHY AND THE PEDAL NEEDING TO BE PRESSED FURTHER INTO THE FLOORBOARD. MY "CHECK BRAKE SYSTEM" LIGHT CAME ON AND UPON INSPECTION NOTICED THAT I WAS LOW ON BRAKE FLUID. I FILLED THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR TO THE MAX LINE. THE NEXT DAY THE SAME WARNING LIGHT CAME ON AND I FURTHER INSPECTED THE BRAKE LINES TO FIND THAT THE LINES FROM THE ABS BOX TO THE REAR HAD RUSTED OUT AND WERE LEAKING BADLY. *TR

TACH AND SPEEDOMETER NOT WORKIN