2023 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER SPORT

The Keyless Vehicle Module security system on my 2023 Range Rover Sport deactivated both of my smart keys simultaneously without any warning or alert. The vehicle locked itself while both keys were inside and completely disabled them both at the same time, leaving my vehicle totally inoperable. I had no way to start or operate my vehicle. There was no warning light, no alert on the dashboard before this happened, and no information provided at purchase that this could ever occur. The only message displayed on the dashboard after the fact was Refer to Handbook Smart Key Deactivated. I am a single father with dependents and this is my only vehicle. I was left completely stranded at my home with no transportation for multiple days. This is a known and documented design defect affecting all Jaguar Land Rover vehicles manufactured from 2022 onwards. The vehicle has been inspected by Land Rover Alexandria dealer located at [XXX] . The dealer confirmed the issue and quoted me $3,000 to replace the Keyless Vehicle Module hardware. After I filed a BBB complaint and contacted Land Rover corporate the price was reduced to $640. My vehicle is a 2023 model and is still under full factory warranty. Land Rover corporate has an open case on this matter under case number XXX No other vehicle manufacturer allows their own security system to completely strand the owner with no warning and no safeguard. This is a serious safety defect because it can strand drivers in dangerous locations at any time without notice INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

2023 Range Rover Sport (VIN: [XXX] ). Vehicle's own anti-theft security system simultaneously deactivated both smart keys after they were left inside the locked vehicle. This is a known design defect across all JLR vehicles from 2022 onwards. Vehicle is now completely inoperable. Dealer is quoting $3,000 for a new Keyless Vehicle Module (KVM) and two new keys. Owner was never warned at purchase that this could occur. This leaves owners completely stranded with no fix available without paying thousands of dollars. This is a safety issue as it can strand drivers in unsafe locations. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The contact owns a 2023 Land Rover Range Rover Sport. The contact stated that while driving approximately 15-20 MPH with her daughter in the vehicle, the contact heard a chugging sound, and the vehicle stopped independently. The contact was able to pull over near a stop sign and stopped and exited the vehicle and became aware that the front passenger’s side wheel had detached from the vehicle. The contact stated that the suspension had detached from the vehicle. The suspension system warning light was illuminated. A dealer was contacted. The vehicle was towed to the dealer and was being diagnosed. The vehicle was not yet repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and documented an incident report. The failure mileage was 47,000.

Dash message shown electrical system fault, vehicle shut down completely in less than 30 min. Upon a jumpstart, the vehicle would only run for less than a minute before complete shutdown. Dealership towed vehicle, and states problem with DC converter.

I was driving my vehicle when suddenly I got a "electrical fault has been detected Pull over Safely" error message. At that time the everything is still running and working. I pulled over safely and shut off the car. I restarted it and it said "low battery, start engine". It was really cold and I imagine as the car kept running, that will recharge the battery. I continued to drive (cautiously on local streets) and about 20 mins later, certain electrical features like lane assist and traction control was not available. A few minutes later, more and more systems were being turned off. Eventually, the car's engine died and there was no electric power to the car. I lost steering and brakes. Everything in the car was electronically controlled. The car rolled to a stop but I was not even able to use my hazard lights. Luckily, it was during the day and I was able to roll to a stop and call for help. This is a safety concern if my engine stopped and I was in the middle lane of a highway. I'm unable to steer, brake, or show signs that I'm in trouble to those behind me. The car was eventually towed to a Land Rover dealer and the service rep said I would need my 48V to 12V DC to DC converter replaced. She has at least 10 other vehicles with this issue. The way the car is designed, when the engine is running, it's powering a 48v battery. The 48v battery then converts the electricity to 12v for all the components of the car. In my case, when the engine was running, it was not able to recharge the 12v battery at all. In a vehicle where EVERYTHING is controlled electronically (even the door handles), there should be a failsafe so the 12v battery can be charged when the engine is running but the DC to DC converter doesn't work. This is a serious safety concern if this happened I needed to avoid hitting pedestrians. The horn won't work and I can't roll my window down to yell.

I was driving my vehicle when suddenly I got a "electrical fault has been detected Pull over Safely" error message. At that time the everything is still running and working. I pulled over safely and shut off the car. I restarted it and it said "low battery, start engine". It was really cold and I imagine as the car kept running, that will recharge the battery. I continued to drive (cautiously on local streets) and about 20 mins later, certain electrical features like lane assist and traction control was not available. A few minutes later, more and more systems were being turned off. Eventually, the car's engine died and there was no electric power to the car. I lost steering and brakes. Everything in the car was electronically controlled. The car rolled to a stop but I was not even able to use my hazard lights. Luckily, it was during the day and I was able to roll to a stop and call for help. This is a safety concern if my engine stopped and I was in the middle lane of a highway. I'm unable to steer, brake, or show signs that I'm in trouble to those behind me. The car was eventually towed to a Land Rover dealer and the service rep said I would need my 48V to 12V DC to DC converter replaced. She has at least 10 other vehicles with this issue. The way the car is designed, when the engine is running, it's powering a 48v battery. The 48v battery then converts the electricity to 12v for all the components of the car. In my case, when the engine was running, it was not able to recharge the 12v battery at all. In a vehicle where EVERYTHING is controlled electronically (even the door handles), there should be a failsafe so the 12v battery can be charged when the engine is running but the DC to DC converter doesn't work. This is a serious safety concern if this happened I needed to avoid hitting pedestrians. The horn won't work and I can't roll my window down to yell.

I was driving my vehicle when suddenly I got a "electrical fault has been detected Pull over Safely" error message. At that time the everything is still running and working. I pulled over safely and shut off the car. I restarted it and it said "low battery, start engine". It was really cold and I imagine as the car kept running, that will recharge the battery. I continued to drive (cautiously on local streets) and about 20 mins later, certain electrical features like lane assist and traction control was not available. A few minutes later, more and more systems were being turned off. Eventually, the car's engine died and there was no electric power to the car. I lost steering and brakes. Everything in the car was electronically controlled. The car rolled to a stop but I was not even able to use my hazard lights. Luckily, it was during the day and I was able to roll to a stop and call for help. This is a safety concern if my engine stopped and I was in the middle lane of a highway. I'm unable to steer, brake, or show signs that I'm in trouble to those behind me. The car was eventually towed to a Land Rover dealer and the service rep said I would need my 48V to 12V DC to DC converter replaced. She has at least 10 other vehicles with this issue. The way the car is designed, when the engine is running, it's powering a 48v battery. The 48v battery then converts the electricity to 12v for all the components of the car. In my case, when the engine was running, it was not able to recharge the 12v battery at all. In a vehicle where EVERYTHING is controlled electronically (even the door handles), there should be a failsafe so the 12v battery can be charged when the engine is running but the DC to DC converter doesn't work. This is a serious safety concern if this happened I needed to avoid hitting pedestrians. The horn won't work and I can't roll my window down to yell.

As i was driving out of the Costco parking lot the car read an error “stop safely. Electrical fault detected” within seconds the car completely shut off. No power. Brakes shut off. Steering shut off.

As i was driving out of the Costco parking lot the car read an error “stop safely. Electrical fault detected” within seconds the car completely shut off. No power. Brakes shut off. Steering shut off.

As i was driving out of the Costco parking lot the car read an error “stop safely. Electrical fault detected” within seconds the car completely shut off. No power. Brakes shut off. Steering shut off.

electrical failure of dc to dc converter, confirmed by manufacturer while driving on the highway i got an error message and immediately afterward the entire car shut down. no power steering, no brakes, no lights or hazards, no airbag. i was able to stop the car by gliding into an embankment in the left hand lane of the highway. was towed to the dealership. only by luck was my car not hit from behind or cause an accident behind me as I had no ability to put the hazards on. called 911 several times to assist but they did not come during the two hours i was on the highway. this issue has been reported in other range rover sports 2023 I had a recent full checkup of the car within the last month.

electrical failure of dc to dc converter, confirmed by manufacturer while driving on the highway i got an error message and immediately afterward the entire car shut down. no power steering, no brakes, no lights or hazards, no airbag. i was able to stop the car by gliding into an embankment in the left hand lane of the highway. was towed to the dealership. only by luck was my car not hit from behind or cause an accident behind me as I had no ability to put the hazards on. called 911 several times to assist but they did not come during the two hours i was on the highway. this issue has been reported in other range rover sports 2023 I had a recent full checkup of the car within the last month.

The red light (Electrical Failure) popped up. Next the car essentially shut down - while on the road - luckily it was on a side road so no collision / personal injury occured although it could have been a disaster. After waiting in 10 degree cold, i towed the vehicle to Range Rover and upon testing next day, i was notified that its a defective DC/DC converter. There is no ETA on when the vehicle will be fixed as the part is on back order as this appears to be a systematic failure across a number of Land Rover makes and models. Dealership suggested this should be a wide spread recall. In the meantime, Range Rover knew of this issue. Dindt notify me (or anyone) and put our lives in danger. And have no means to fix the issue given the part is on backorder

Since buying this car brand new it’s been nothing but problem after problem. Newest problem is one I’ve been researching and long history of this issue. Needs to be recalled. It’s a DcDc issue very well known parts are on lengthy back order and the cost is astronomical!!! Please help !!!

Since buying this car brand new it’s been nothing but problem after problem. Newest problem is one I’ve been researching and long history of this issue. Needs to be recalled. It’s a DcDc issue very well known parts are on lengthy back order and the cost is astronomical!!! Please help !!!

Since buying this car brand new it’s been nothing but problem after problem. Newest problem is one I’ve been researching and long history of this issue. Needs to be recalled. It’s a DcDc issue very well known parts are on lengthy back order and the cost is astronomical!!! Please help !!!

The cars electrical system failed while driving on the highway. It first impacted the traction control, then ABS, then put the car into neutral while traveling at 70 mph the highway with no ability to put the car into drive. Fortunately I was able to coast into the breakdown lane before the car completely shut off and put itself in park. Had I not been able to get into the breakdown lane we would have been sitting stalled in the middle of the highway with no flashers p putting me, my wife and kids at significant risk of injury or death with cars and trucks going 70+ mph. The vehicle has been inspected by the dealer and I have been told it is a DC-to-DC converter that has failed and is the cause of the issue. The dealer informed me that this has been a recurring issue for these vehicles and that parts are on backorder due to the volume or orders. At the time of my call they indicated there is a "significant" number of orders nationally for this part. I was fortunate to have been able to get into the breakdown lane but this would have turned out very differently had I not been able to do that. I think others should be warned/aware of this issue.

The cars electrical system failed while driving on the highway. It first impacted the traction control, then ABS, then put the car into neutral while traveling at 70 mph the highway with no ability to put the car into drive. Fortunately I was able to coast into the breakdown lane before the car completely shut off and put itself in park. Had I not been able to get into the breakdown lane we would have been sitting stalled in the middle of the highway with no flashers p putting me, my wife and kids at significant risk of injury or death with cars and trucks going 70+ mph. The vehicle has been inspected by the dealer and I have been told it is a DC-to-DC converter that has failed and is the cause of the issue. The dealer informed me that this has been a recurring issue for these vehicles and that parts are on backorder due to the volume or orders. At the time of my call they indicated there is a "significant" number of orders nationally for this part. I was fortunate to have been able to get into the breakdown lane but this would have turned out very differently had I not been able to do that. I think others should be warned/aware of this issue.

Since I purchased this car new it has been problem after problem. Car now again is currently not running. It has been a nightmare and after further research there has been many complaints about this car. Please look into Land Rover it’s really a problem going on with them and their cars

Since I purchased this car new it has been problem after problem. Car now again is currently not running. It has been a nightmare and after further research there has been many complaints about this car. Please look into Land Rover it’s really a problem going on with them and their cars

Since I purchased this car new it has been problem after problem. Car now again is currently not running. It has been a nightmare and after further research there has been many complaints about this car. Please look into Land Rover it’s really a problem going on with them and their cars

My vehicle as well received an electric fault message shortly before loosing all electrical power. When I say all I mean all as if someone removed the battery from the car. The issue that was described to me from the service department was the low voltage (12v) to high voltage (48v) I think dc to dc converter shorted out. They said this was the first device after the battery and contained all the battery saftey circuits. It allowed the LiFo battery to reach zero volts and they didn't replace the battery afterwards. When this happened I lost all power steering, lights, ability to use the roadside assistance.

My vehicle as well received an electric fault message shortly before loosing all electrical power. When I say all I mean all as if someone removed the battery from the car. The issue that was described to me from the service department was the low voltage (12v) to high voltage (48v) I think dc to dc converter shorted out. They said this was the first device after the battery and contained all the battery saftey circuits. It allowed the LiFo battery to reach zero volts and they didn't replace the battery afterwards. When this happened I lost all power steering, lights, ability to use the roadside assistance.

My vehicle lags using the accelerator. If you press the gas it taskes 10 seconds for the vehicle to begin moving unless you give it around 40% accelerator then it jumps uncontrollably forward. This happens everyday. I drive this vehicle constantly and the more I drive it the worse it gets. I feel the electric traction motor doesn't engage because of any number of reasons. I bring it to the shop and they charge the battery. After that it works fine for a few days then begins again.

My vehicle lags using the accelerator. If you press the gas it taskes 10 seconds for the vehicle to begin moving unless you give it around 40% accelerator then it jumps uncontrollably forward. This happens everyday. I drive this vehicle constantly and the more I drive it the worse it gets. I feel the electric traction motor doesn't engage because of any number of reasons. I bring it to the shop and they charge the battery. After that it works fine for a few days then begins again.

Windshield cracks spontaneously. In addition, there is an optical defect in the windshield glass that distorts visibility and is a safety hazard.

Less than 2 hours before my car completely shut down while driving, I received an error message stating "Stop safely. Electrical fault detected." I immediately reached out to the service department who told they didn't think the car would have any additional issues and that I should bring it to the shop on Monday (the incident happened on Saturday). While driving down an entrance ramp to a major highway, my car shut completely off leaving me with no steering, brakes, emergency brakes, hazards or anything--completely dead to the point where absolutely nothing worked. I had to do my best to steer a dead car down an entrance ramp and onto a grassy area on the side of the highway as to avoid being hit by another vehicle or crashing into a vehicle or tree. The safety of myself and my family was put at risk because the car completely shut down leaving no emergency equipment for me to use. I had cars behind me, in front of me, and beside me on a busy highway with a speed limit of 70 mph. I was also going down a ramp with no brakes. At first I thought it was the battery as did the dealership, then they suspected the generator, then they said it was the converter. They were able to produce the same problem after the generator was replaced and the car only ran for 15 minutes. Unfortunately we sold the car within 2 weeks of the incident because we no longer felt safe, and the manufacturer has been replacing one part at a time with the most important part being on back order with no indication of when it will arrive.

Less than 2 hours before my car completely shut down while driving, I received an error message stating "Stop safely. Electrical fault detected." I immediately reached out to the service department who told they didn't think the car would have any additional issues and that I should bring it to the shop on Monday (the incident happened on Saturday). While driving down an entrance ramp to a major highway, my car shut completely off leaving me with no steering, brakes, emergency brakes, hazards or anything--completely dead to the point where absolutely nothing worked. I had to do my best to steer a dead car down an entrance ramp and onto a grassy area on the side of the highway as to avoid being hit by another vehicle or crashing into a vehicle or tree. The safety of myself and my family was put at risk because the car completely shut down leaving no emergency equipment for me to use. I had cars behind me, in front of me, and beside me on a busy highway with a speed limit of 70 mph. I was also going down a ramp with no brakes. At first I thought it was the battery as did the dealership, then they suspected the generator, then they said it was the converter. They were able to produce the same problem after the generator was replaced and the car only ran for 15 minutes. Unfortunately we sold the car within 2 weeks of the incident because we no longer felt safe, and the manufacturer has been replacing one part at a time with the most important part being on back order with no indication of when it will arrive.

Less than 2 hours before my car completely shut down while driving, I received an error message stating "Stop safely. Electrical fault detected." I immediately reached out to the service department who told they didn't think the car would have any additional issues and that I should bring it to the shop on Monday (the incident happened on Saturday). While driving down an entrance ramp to a major highway, my car shut completely off leaving me with no steering, brakes, emergency brakes, hazards or anything--completely dead to the point where absolutely nothing worked. I had to do my best to steer a dead car down an entrance ramp and onto a grassy area on the side of the highway as to avoid being hit by another vehicle or crashing into a vehicle or tree. The safety of myself and my family was put at risk because the car completely shut down leaving no emergency equipment for me to use. I had cars behind me, in front of me, and beside me on a busy highway with a speed limit of 70 mph. I was also going down a ramp with no brakes. At first I thought it was the battery as did the dealership, then they suspected the generator, then they said it was the converter. They were able to produce the same problem after the generator was replaced and the car only ran for 15 minutes. Unfortunately we sold the car within 2 weeks of the incident because we no longer felt safe, and the manufacturer has been replacing one part at a time with the most important part being on back order with no indication of when it will arrive.

Car started flashing "Lane assist not available" and steering wheel locked out.. it seems like no power steering anymore.. i am taking it to dealership but could been a major accident.

Car started flashing "Lane assist not available" and steering wheel locked out.. it seems like no power steering anymore.. i am taking it to dealership but could been a major accident.

The car had a warning light in December “stop safely electrical fault detected” Land Rover dealership told me nothing was wrong, except I don’t drive enough & the battery was low. Eventually, the warning went away. This week, the warning light was back, along with additional warnings. The car literally shut down & quit working while it was running. I was sitting in a drive-through. I could not put it in park or drive. Extremely dangerous!!! I had to tow it to the dealership. Again we were told that I don’t drive the car enough. i’ve had it for 5 months and it only has 3000 miles. We refused to accept that as an answer. Eventually, they said there was an update needed. I still do not feel this car is safe.

The car had a warning light in December “stop safely electrical fault detected” Land Rover dealership told me nothing was wrong, except I don’t drive enough & the battery was low. Eventually, the warning went away. This week, the warning light was back, along with additional warnings. The car literally shut down & quit working while it was running. I was sitting in a drive-through. I could not put it in park or drive. Extremely dangerous!!! I had to tow it to the dealership. Again we were told that I don’t drive the car enough. i’ve had it for 5 months and it only has 3000 miles. We refused to accept that as an answer. Eventually, they said there was an update needed. I still do not feel this car is safe.

The car had a warning light in December “stop safely electrical fault detected” Land Rover dealership told me nothing was wrong, except I don’t drive enough & the battery was low. Eventually, the warning went away. This week, the warning light was back, along with additional warnings. The car literally shut down & quit working while it was running. I was sitting in a drive-through. I could not put it in park or drive. Extremely dangerous!!! I had to tow it to the dealership. Again we were told that I don’t drive the car enough. i’ve had it for 5 months and it only has 3000 miles. We refused to accept that as an answer. Eventually, they said there was an update needed. I still do not feel this car is safe.

The contact owns a 2023 Land Rover Range Rover Sport. The contact stated that while driving at unknown speeds, the brake warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed that the brake pads needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired due to the parts being backordered. The manufacturer was contacted, who informed him not to drive the vehicle. but no further assistance was provided. The approximate failure mileage was 13,000. The VIN was not available.

Sadly, I have to report that I have not had my truck for more than 2 weeks and I had to already bring it to the dealerships for diagnostic evaluation for an Electrical fault detection message. As per the service department the vehicle needs a new Alternator. Hence, needing an alternator replacement when the vehicle has less than 200 miles is of great concern for the safety of my family and myself because this may have resulted from a manufacturer's safety-related defect? Or problem. I am hoping nothing major goes wrong with the vehicle after this initial repair other than regular maintenance and regular usage repairs. Needless to say, I am very disappointed and rethinking my automotive purchase. In addition, this is a great inconvenience to me. The vehicle currently at dealership for Alternator part replacement.

Adaptive Cruise Control does not recognize (at times) stopped cars. SUV will accelerate into a stopped car. Similar problem on the NJ Turnpike traveling 65 mph with Adaptive Cruise Control. All lanes had a meaningful slow down and SUV continued to accelerate into slowdown. Almost had an accident and had to slam on the breaks. There was NO collision warning (should he alerted). The Lane Assist is buggy and pushes against my natural steering for no reason. It’s constantly trying to steer against my 2 handed steering.

Adaptive Cruise Control does not recognize (at times) stopped cars. SUV will accelerate into a stopped car. Similar problem on the NJ Turnpike traveling 65 mph with Adaptive Cruise Control. All lanes had a meaningful slow down and SUV continued to accelerate into slowdown. Almost had an accident and had to slam on the breaks. There was NO collision warning (should he alerted). The Lane Assist is buggy and pushes against my natural steering for no reason. It’s constantly trying to steer against my 2 handed steering.