2010 SUBARU OUTBACK

This car is a very well-maintained, low-use vehicle with regular oil changes and routine maintenance performed on schedule. Early in this drive, I noticed an unusual hissing sound as I approached a stop. When I tried to brake, I realized my brakes didn't seem to be responding. I pressed the brake pedal harder and realized that with 50-100 pounds of pressure (guess), I could slow the car down. As I came to a stop, the engine died. I restarted the car, and it died again immediately. After the following restart, I realized I could manually keep the RPM up in neutral while at stops, and press with significant force to get the car to stop. Had I not been comfortable two foot driving or understood the issue, this surely would have resulted in a crash of some sort. The car indicated a check engine light, loss of traction control, a flashing BRAKE light, and a flashing cruise control light. I took the car immediately to a local shop where they identified the problem as a vacuum leak at the brake booster. The plastic piece that the hose clamps onto had cracked off, leading to this problem. This make and model does not seem to have a check valve downstream of this component.

This car is a very well-maintained, low-use vehicle with regular oil changes and routine maintenance performed on schedule. Early in this drive, I noticed an unusual hissing sound as I approached a stop. When I tried to brake, I realized my brakes didn't seem to be responding. I pressed the brake pedal harder and realized that with 50-100 pounds of pressure (guess), I could slow the car down. As I came to a stop, the engine died. I restarted the car, and it died again immediately. After the following restart, I realized I could manually keep the RPM up in neutral while at stops, and press with significant force to get the car to stop. Had I not been comfortable two foot driving or understood the issue, this surely would have resulted in a crash of some sort. The car indicated a check engine light, loss of traction control, a flashing BRAKE light, and a flashing cruise control light. I took the car immediately to a local shop where they identified the problem as a vacuum leak at the brake booster. The plastic piece that the hose clamps onto had cracked off, leading to this problem. This make and model does not seem to have a check valve downstream of this component.

This car is a very well-maintained, low-use vehicle with regular oil changes and routine maintenance performed on schedule. Early in this drive, I noticed an unusual hissing sound as I approached a stop. When I tried to brake, I realized my brakes didn't seem to be responding. I pressed the brake pedal harder and realized that with 50-100 pounds of pressure (guess), I could slow the car down. As I came to a stop, the engine died. I restarted the car, and it died again immediately. After the following restart, I realized I could manually keep the RPM up in neutral while at stops, and press with significant force to get the car to stop. Had I not been comfortable two foot driving or understood the issue, this surely would have resulted in a crash of some sort. The car indicated a check engine light, loss of traction control, a flashing BRAKE light, and a flashing cruise control light. I took the car immediately to a local shop where they identified the problem as a vacuum leak at the brake booster. The plastic piece that the hose clamps onto had cracked off, leading to this problem. This make and model does not seem to have a check valve downstream of this component.

On Saturday, August 9, 2025, my brakes failed at highway speed. My vehicle's stopping distance was severely increased, forcing me to perform an emergency swerve into the leftmost lane to avoid rear-ending a truck. The maneuver was extremely hazardous, as it occurred in a construction zone with concrete barriers and no shoulder, leaving no safe escape path and endangering myself and others. I confirmed the cause was a catastrophic failure of the four-way brake line union block due to severe corrosion. There were no warning lamps or symptoms prior to the incident; the failure was sudden and total. I found that this defect is difficult to spot during inspections because the part is hidden by a plastic panel. The failed union block and corroded lines were removed and are available for inspection upon request. My research shows this is a widespread issue and the exact failure mode covered by Subaru Recall WQK-47R for 2005-2009 models. This known safety defect persists in the 2010-2014 generation, which is not covered by the recall. Prohibitive dealer repair costs are forcing unsafe workarounds. This defect presents an unreasonable risk to public safety, and I urge the NHTSA to investigate.

It is a known issue with subarus of this year that the engine will stall at random intervals when stopping, weather at a stop sign or stop light, warm or cold, fast stops or regular stopping. There is no consistency to it, completely random. There are no warning lights that appear, I have not taken this car to the dealer because after purchasing it I cannot afford to take it to the dealer. I purchased this car used for my elderly parents and this is a disturbing problem that could get them hurt or killed. Why has this KNOWN issue not been recalled? there are multiple service bulletins reported to NHTSA addressing this issue but no recall?

Brake pedal went to the floor while applying the brake. Pulled car back up driveway and parked and noted almost zero ability to brake the car, pedal goes to floor when applying pressure to the pedal, almost zero ability to come to stop. Checked fluid - was still in reservoir but not at max. level (b/n max and min.). Checked under hood at and no signs of any leaks in engine compartment or on any lines in engine compartment (all good). Looked under car and no signs of leaking. Opened reservoir to top off to max. and by time I went into garage and came back with brake fluid the reservoir was empty, reexamined and found brake fluid leaking from a plastic cover on passenger side rear of car. Placed cover to soak up all fluid dripping/ streaming down to the ground. Called my local mechanic, and he indicated car may need to be towed to be serviced. In looking online, I have found many accounts of this issue with 2010 Subaru outback owners in northern areas where corrosion at the 4-way connector of the brakes lines causes immediate loss of braking and loss of all fluid. Not sure of cost, but I am thinking once it is examined the 4-way connector and all 4 brake lines may need to be replaced. This appears to be a widely known issue and for some reason this was never included or changed from 2005-2009 Subaru recalls to change for 2010 models, so I would like to know why this and the cost for repairs are not covered by Subaru as a RECALL. This could have caused a major accident and severe injury or death if traveling at speed on highway or in area needing hard braking to come to immediate stop. This is now the third major issue I have had in less than 12-months and 2nd from corrosion on my 2010 Subaru. Last summer my front frame had corrosion damage and required replacement. This brake issue with corrosion at the lines to the 4-way connector had recalls in earlier models, but why not in 2010 Subaru Outbacks? Very Unsafe and No Warning Light prior to brake loss !

The contact owns a 2010 Subaru Outback. The contact stated while driving at 5 MPH, the brake pedal was depressed and failed to respond. The brake warning light was illuminated. The contact attempted to contact the manufacturer and was informed that the vehicle would not be covered under a recall. The vehicle was then taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed the vehicle with catastrophic brake line failure due to corrosion. The vehicle was repaired. The dealer was not made aware of the failure. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.

I noticed my brake pedal suddenly sink to the floor, and I have to press the pedal all the way to the bottom to get a little bit of brake. Was able to make it back home. Upon inspection, I noticed brake fluid dripping from rear passenger side brake pipe, I took off a plastic cover that covers the brake line, and noticed heavy rust on a "Manifold" where two brake lines coming from front of the car and two lines going to two side of rear brakes. The brake line is leaking right from there. I feel sudden failure of this part can lead to fatal accident, luckily I was very close to home and on a local road when I experience this. And Subaru should 1. make it more easy for inspection. 2. notify the public. 3. get more rust proof measures, 4. get it fixed for the current owners. Thanks.

Complete brake failure due to leakage at 4 way b8rake line junction located above the gas tank on right side rear of vehicle. Known and reported issue due to rust and corrosion of brake lines in this UNPROTECTED area of vehicle. It has been a known problem on these 4th generation vehicles...no recall instituted. Wife and I lucky to be alive. Ridiculous that Subaru America has not been SUMMONED to conform to a NTHSA recall and make repairs on those vehicles affected. Absolutely NO indication failure was about to occur resulting in complete brake failure. Amazingly, this happened in such an area where I was able to roll to a stop and take action to transport the vehicle to my home where it is officially grounded in my garage. Condition was confirmed by a Subaru Master Technician.

Engine subframe catastrophic failure (left side) due to severe corrosion. Lower control arm detached resulting in erratic handling and pulling. Car unsafe to drive and expensive to repair at ~$2200. Did research and found to be a very common complaint for 2010-2014. Recall needs to be issued to replace corroded subframes.

The brake system failed when the brake lines burst at the four way connector on the right, rear side of the vehicle. There were no indicator lights lit on the dash until after losing all braking. Luckily I was traveling slowly and was able to roll to a stop safely. This is due to corrosion on the brake lines in the area of the four way connector. There is a small inspection door on the cover for this connector, so the issue is easily seen. This has been an issue for Subarus in the past with many recalls for this issue on similar models. Unfortunately the recalls end in 2009 for Outbacks while mine is a 2010. Obviously this issue has not been corrected by the manufacturer.

I see many many complaints about the head gasket material Subaru used was not compatible with the very fluid that is needed for the cars engine to not blow up.....coolant. Subaru knows the head gasket material is ruined by the coolant it needs but has left us consumers to deal with a very costly, devastating issue such as what I just want through and am still in the middle of a fight with dealer who sold me a car for 10995 and I had it 2 weeks....coolant blew everywhere had to fight with dealership to get them to tow it. I was yelled at, hung up on, calls not returned all while I have no car no way to work and as a [XXX] and a child to raise, I do not have options and live by a thread and paycheck to paycheck.....It should not be allowed that Subaru doesn't fix that since it is a manufacturing defect that they made it incompatible with the coolant it needs. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The contact's father owned a 2010 Subaru Outback. The contact's father received recall notifications of NHTSA Campaign Number: 20V001000 (Air Bags) and would like to be removed from the recall distribution list because he no longer owns the vehicle, and the vehicle was exported to Canada. The dealer and the manufacturer were not contacted.

Brake failure - after inspecting vehicle 6/20/2024 noted brake fluid leaking from underneath the vehicles right hand side. Removed splash guard and noticed the brake lines had extensive corrosion in a small section with no protective coating. Brake fluid noted leaking from the unprotected area. The rest of the brake lines were fully intact.

Vehicle has an automatic transmission and it stalls when stopping. There is no warning light on the dash. This happens more frequently when the vehicle is warm, in early operation it may only hesitate or run rough while stopping. A warm a stop is more likely to stall the vehicle than a slow stop. Hard braking at operating temperature will stall the vehicle without fail. This has been happening since I bought it and it occurs with each drive every day.

Vehicle has an automatic transmission and it stalls when stopping. There is no warning light on the dash. This happens more frequently when the vehicle is warm, in early operation it may only hesitate or run rough while stopping. A warm a stop is more likely to stall the vehicle than a slow stop. Hard braking at operating temperature will stall the vehicle without fail. This has been happening since I bought it and it occurs with each drive every day.

The contact owns a 2010 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that on numerous occasions while driving at undisclosed speeds, the vehicle hesitated. No warning light was illuminated. The contact stated that while shifted in reverse, the vehicle inadvertently shifted into drive independently. The contact turned off and restart the vehicle. The contact then stated that he was able navigate the vehicle back onto the road. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the failure could not be duplicated. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and the contact was informed that the warranty had expired but no further assistance was provided. The failure mileage was approximately 196,000.

2010 Outback Subframe or cradle Subaru OEM # 50527AJ01A is a vital safety component and as designed and installed completely supports the weight of the engine and transmission - I have excessive rust and Corrosion of sub frame. This should be a recall. A google search shows this is a common issue for this model. Please review my complaint

Brake line corrosion, I noticed it about 10 months after buying the car. they finally broke five days ago I called Subaru. They told me it’s just regular wear and tear and there is no recall for the corroded brake lines and the junction box.

The brakes completely gave out while the vehicle was being driven, without warning. The BRAKE light did not turn on until after the car had been stopped and restarted and the brakes had already gone out. Fortunately, the vehicle was being driven on a side street, and it was able to coast into a parking lot. Had the brakes given out before then, when it was on the highway, the outcome could have been far worse. The vehicle was towed to a mechanic. The mechanic stated that once they removed the cover over the rear junction box near the fuel tank, they found the junction box to be corroded away. The vehicle has been to several mechanics over the past several years, and none of them have ever identified any issues with the brakes or brake lines. Subaru had issued a recall for the same issue but for model years 05 to 09.

All instrument and waning lights illuminated and the engine shut down while driving. Took to the Subaru dealer repair shop and the vehicle was diagnosed with a head gasket leak that caused oil to mix with the coolant. This is a low mileage vehicle, 67,597 miles, that has been maintained by Subaru certified mechanics.

ACTUATOR THAT ADJUSTS THE AIR FLOW BROKEN AND DOESN'T NOW ALLOW THE AIRFLOW TO BE DIRECTED TO THE WINDSHIELD. THIS IS AN EXTREME SAFETY HAZARD AS THE WINDOWS FOG UP AS THE CAR WARMS AND YOU CANNOT SEE OUT OF THE WINDOW.

This is not about my car, but instead many different cars. When a cars lights are set to it's parking lights or running lights position, often located on the turn signal stalk, at night it appears to the driver that their headlights are on, when in fact only the "parking lights are on in front. This is a problem, but not what I'm reporting. When in the parking light position (at night), it appears the headlights are on because there's some light out front AND the instrument cluster is lit up as well. Here's the defect in design, the brake lights are NOT on, completely dark at the rear of the vehicle, so drivers are driving on the highway thinking their headlights and brakes lights are on, when they're not. When the parking light position is active, it should include the brake lights. Can't imagine how many rear-enders are because of this design flaw. *The rotating light switch on turn signal stalks often get unknowingly rotated out of Auto or the headlight position when the turn signal is repeatedly used.

While driving at highway speed the tire separated at the seam of the sidewall and tread. Tire tread depth was between 9–9.5/32nd on the tire. 225/60 r17 tire. Because of the complete separation of the tire and how sudden the separation occurred, it caused the vehicle to lose control, thankfully the driver was able to get control of the vehicle and get it start safely. The safety of all occupants and vehicles on the roadway were put at risk. Tire was taken to the retailer (car dealership), retailer and consumer contacted the manufacturer who stated this is not a manufacture defect.

My daughter was concerned with the car making strange squeaking sounds on turning and braking and so I met her where her car was parked in a lot and drove it for less than 1 minute and could tell something was very wrong and that it didn't seem safe to drive home. My husband came to check as well and zeroed in on the problem being the front driver's side tire/suspension. Fortunately the Subaru dealership was less than .5 away and my husband drove it there (with flashers on). It was determined by the dealership that the subframe had rusted through (we have photos uploaded below) and a new one was ordered and replaced within the week. The materials and labor for that alone cost $1944.37. Control arm bushings, rear toe arms, and alignment were also completed. The total cost of the repair was $3281.14.

My daughter was concerned with the car making strange squeaking sounds on turning and braking and so I met her where her car was parked in a lot and drove it for less than 1 minute and could tell something was very wrong and that it didn't seem safe to drive home. My husband came to check as well and zeroed in on the problem being the front driver's side tire/suspension. Fortunately the Subaru dealership was less than .5 away and my husband drove it there (with flashers on). It was determined by the dealership that the subframe had rusted through (we have photos uploaded below) and a new one was ordered and replaced within the week. The materials and labor for that alone cost $1944.37. Control arm bushings, rear toe arms, and alignment were also completed. The total cost of the repair was $3281.14.

The contact owns a 2010 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that while his daughter was reversing out of the driveway, the vehicle was making an abnormal clicking sound. The contact's daughter was able to continue driving; however, the suspension was not stable. The contact and his wife test drove the vehicle and noticed that the suspension was unstable. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the front subframe was severely corroded. The dealer diagnosed that the subframe, bushings, and the rear toe links needed to be replaced; and an alignment needed to be performed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and a case was opened. The failure mileage was approximately 114,000.

The car will die/stop working at stop signs and at abrupt stops. The problem has been confirmed by a Subaru dealer, and it is a known safety concern, as Subaru put out a safety bulletin but came up short in actually recalling the cars affected. It has been confirmed as a faulty torque converter by a dealership service department. There have been no warnings or messages prior to the problem happening. It is a HUGE safety concern, as the car will die at lights and busy intersections, causing traffic to stop abruptly. It is an accident waiting to happen!!! Because my vehicle is out of warranty, Subaru will not cover the cost of replacing this DANGEROUS system failure.

Recently, while driving home in traffic, with the car in drive while braking, my car stalled in the middle of the road. Since then, it has happened 4 times. Upon breaking while the car is in Drive, the car stalls and Check Engine Light, Battery, Engine Oil, Oil Temp, AWD, and Traction Control Warning Light come on. When I shift the car into Park, turn off the car, and restart, the lights go away and the car runs smoothly. This is a huge safety concern when the car fails while I am actively driving and has almost caused accidents. I took the car to the dealership and they said that it needs a new torque converter (see Subaru Service Bulletin 16-90-13R https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10140492-9999.pdf). This is a huge safety liability and this issue should be recalled as the car stalling in the middle of traffic is dangerous.

I have a 2010 Subaru Outback that has significant corrosion on the rear four-way brake joint connector that can lead to a serious accident. There was a campaign that addressed this very issue (NHTSA ID: 14V-311) but it did not include 2010 Outback even though it had the same design. This issue is very serious.

Takata recall. The contact owns a 2010 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that he received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 19V007000 (Air Bags) however, the part to do the recall repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. VIN tool showed no recall associated with the VIN. Consumer would like to cancel the investigation.

About three years ago; there was a recall for the headlights. Subaru did replace the headlights, but I have replaced the headlights two additional times since then. And I currently have a headlight out a marker light out. I also last year had all of my marker lights burn out.

I’m driving down the road and I hit a bump, then I go to brake and veers left, I take to my mechanic he says the my subframe cracked, car is not safe to drive, he says it happens a lot

Outback started jerking forward with an increase in RPMs and noise from engine. Malfunction was very alarming and could result in a traffic accident...especially at higher speeds and in traffic. No warning lamps/messages indicated from vehicle. Took vehicle to Subaru dealership and rode with mechanic. Was told by dealership that a new CVT (transmission) is needed at a quoted cost of $9,000+ (with only 110k miles on the vehicle). Found that a warranty extension was offered by Subaru (2017 CVT Warranty Extension Bulletin Number 16-107-17R) for customer complaints about this issue but not a recall. Contacted Subaru of America. Subaru of America offered minimal assistance and would not honor the extended warranty due to just falling outside of extended warranty period (due to driving fewer-than-average miles per year).

The contact owns a 2010 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that while coming to a complete stop, the vehicle inadvertently lost motive power. Additionally, the vehicle would make abnormal sounds and the gear shift indicator light would disappear from the instrument cluster. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, but the dealer could not duplicate the failure. The vehicle was taken to four independent mechanics. The last mechanic diagnosed that the failure was related to NHTSA Campaign Number: 19V297000 (Electrical System) however, the VIN was not included in the recall. The vehicle was not repaired and remained with the independent mechanic. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure but informed the contact that there was no recall associated with the VIN. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.

CVT was given a warranty extension. Subaru is aware that this is a KNOWN issue, otherwise they would not have given a warranty extension. A loud squealing occurs and a the RPMs increase when driving. This occurs in slower speed areas as well as on the highway. This is a dangerous problem as the transmission could give out while driving on the highway or interstate. The driver would then be forced to slow to a lower mph and possibly cause an accident. Since this is a known problem with this year, a recall should be given for Subaru to repair this CVT problem in all models. At the very least, if a person calls in to have this problem resolved, they should repair the problem since it's a known issue.

Failure of rear hydraulic braking system (brake lines) due to corrosion. Steady loss of fluid due to corrosion around the double brake line union underneath rear passenger side. Plastic cover prevents corrosion issues from being spotted prior to it becoming a catastrophic failure. Vehicle has been inspected by a service center. The "brake" warning lamp illuminated in the dash to alert the drivers of a possible problem, but a significant amount of fluid was lost.

Purchased used Subaru 10/28/2021. While driving on highway the engine is running and trying to brake at the same time. Its frightening, It seems like the vehicle will stop at highway speed and my family & myself could be injured if not killed. I am taking my newly purchased vehicle for the second time to Post Oak Acura, Tulsa, Oklahoma 74145. Researched on my own the signs of highway driving & the engine attempted to stop. Many complaints located on line with with the final diagnosis of a "faulty failing torque convertor".

Subframe or cradle Subaru OEM # 50527AJ01A is a vital safety component (see dealer's written comments below) and as designed and installed completely supports the weight of the engine and transmission - rust and corrosion per mechanics at 3 different garages (Mickey's, Weber, Ganley Subaru) advised vehicle is unsafe to drive due to subframe corrosion and imminent failure. Corrosion of sub frame and its welds are very extreme for low mileage 102,000 Quoting Ganley Subaru dealer in North Olmsted, Ohio in writing (vehicle originally purchase there by me the current owner): "A damaged sub frame puts everyone in the vehicle at risk. During a collision the subframe is responsible for absorbing and evenly distributing the forces from impact. If damaged the sub frame cannot distribute the impact causing a complete collapse of the vehicle." I called Subaru customer service/advocacy department on October 22, 2021 and was told there were no recalls or warranty on this part and I would bear the complete cost of repair and replacement almost $5,000.00 for subframe and steering rack and pinion. I have pictures and video's I also have requested the dealer return the subframe to me after repair and replacement. Picture attached is just one small length of the subframe the entire length of which on both the driver and passenger sides and on both sides of the frame show complete failure due to corrosion

Subframe or cradle Subaru OEM # 50527AJ01A is a vital safety component (see dealer's written comments below) and as designed and installed completely supports the weight of the engine and transmission - rust and corrosion per mechanics at 3 different garages (Mickey's, Weber, Ganley Subaru) advised vehicle is unsafe to drive due to subframe corrosion and imminent failure. Corrosion of sub frame and its welds are very extreme for low mileage 102,000 Quoting Ganley Subaru dealer in North Olmsted, Ohio in writing (vehicle originally purchase there by me the current owner): "A damaged sub frame puts everyone in the vehicle at risk. During a collision the subframe is responsible for absorbing and evenly distributing the forces from impact. If damaged the sub frame cannot distribute the impact causing a complete collapse of the vehicle." I called Subaru customer service/advocacy department on October 22, 2021 and was told there were no recalls or warranty on this part and I would bear the complete cost of repair and replacement almost $5,000.00 for subframe and steering rack and pinion. I have pictures and video's I also have requested the dealer return the subframe to me after repair and replacement. Picture attached is just one small length of the subframe the entire length of which on both the driver and passenger sides and on both sides of the frame show complete failure due to corrosion

Total engine failure at just 75k miles. Barely driven, maintenance schedule always kept up to date, out of nowhere engine stopped and I was told the oil was completely empty. They were unable to resolve by adding oil. Also, transmission light has been on for 3+ years. Have been told by every repair shop who has checked this that it’s just a glitch in the electrical system and the transmission is fine. A few weeks prior to engine failure, the car began to have trouble accelerating and made a sort of “race car” sound. Barely could go past 40 mph without slamming on gas. Finally, doors have randomly decided to stop locking and unlocking while using key fob. Batteries have been replaced. Some doors work, some do not (namely, the driver side door). Other misc electrical issues like USB failure.

Total engine failure at just 75k miles. Barely driven, maintenance schedule always kept up to date, out of nowhere engine stopped and I was told the oil was completely empty. They were unable to resolve by adding oil. Also, transmission light has been on for 3+ years. Have been told by every repair shop who has checked this that it’s just a glitch in the electrical system and the transmission is fine. A few weeks prior to engine failure, the car began to have trouble accelerating and made a sort of “race car” sound. Barely could go past 40 mph without slamming on gas. Finally, doors have randomly decided to stop locking and unlocking while using key fob. Batteries have been replaced. Some doors work, some do not (namely, the driver side door). Other misc electrical issues like USB failure.

Total engine failure at just 75k miles. Barely driven, maintenance schedule always kept up to date, out of nowhere engine stopped and I was told the oil was completely empty. They were unable to resolve by adding oil. Also, transmission light has been on for 3+ years. Have been told by every repair shop who has checked this that it’s just a glitch in the electrical system and the transmission is fine. A few weeks prior to engine failure, the car began to have trouble accelerating and made a sort of “race car” sound. Barely could go past 40 mph without slamming on gas. Finally, doors have randomly decided to stop locking and unlocking while using key fob. Batteries have been replaced. Some doors work, some do not (namely, the driver side door). Other misc electrical issues like USB failure.

We experienced a steering failure which could have led to a very serious accident. Returning on a freeway after purchasing groceries we heard a kind of rattle rhat seemed to come from behind the hub of the steering wheel. We made it home but as we pulled into our driveway the steering failed completely. The steering wheel spun around like a pinwheel, no resistance whatsoever and absolutely no effect on the car’s steering. If this had happened on the freeway I hate to think what might have happened. The car had to be towed to the local Subaru dealer where it took 17 days to repair the vehicle. We were lucky. It could well have been a disaster.

The abs system failed at 117K miles and rendered the ABS inoperative. The Electronic parking brake recall could not be completed because of this. We were quoted $1600 to replace the abs pump and computer so that the recall could be completed. The vehicle was dangerously difficult to stop and almost caused a crash.

We have a engine stalling problem on a 2010 Subaru outback when braking it is a known problem with the transmission failing and Subaru extended a warrantee to 100,000 miles or 10 years but did not notify owners. Now at 110000 miles we are having similar problems. I don't think we should be penalized for driving less miles per year but have same issue. They admitted a problem but refuse to cover it.

MY VEHICLE STALLS WHEN I SLOW DOWN FOR A STOP SIGN OR TRAFFIC LIGHT. IT'S BEEN OCCURRING FOR MONTHS.

CODE C0251 ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE MALFUNCTION/INOPERATIVE; SOMETIMES EPB WILL ENGAGE WHEN DRIVING AT A SLOW PACE <10MPH NO ACCIDENTS ASSOCIATED

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 50 MPH, SHE NOTICED THAT THE HORN MADE NO SOUND WHEN DEPRESSED. THERE WAS NO WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER OR INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSIS. THE MANUFACTURE WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND PROVIDED MINIMAL ASSISTANCE TO THE CONTACT WITH OFFERING A PARTIAL PAYMENT FOR THE REPAIR. THE CONTACT FELT THAT SHE SHOULD NOT BE RESPONSIBLE TO PAY FOR THE REPAIR. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 129,000.*DT*DT*DT*JB VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER.*JB

2010 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHEN MY WIFE WAS ENTERING A 4-WAY STOP, THE BRAKE PEDAL WENT TO THE FLOOR. WAS ABLE TO GET HOME WITHOUT INCIDENT. UPON INSPECTION, FOUND THE BRAKE LINES AT A JUNCTION BLOCK NEAR THE GAS TANK SEVERELY CORRODED AND LEAKING. WHY WAS THIS NOT PART OF THE RECALL WHICH WENT FROM 2005-2009. CAR WAS MFG'D IN 2009, ABOUT 150000 MILES