2017 SUBARU CROSSTREK Recalls, Complaints & Safety

Premature shift fork failure in 2017 Subaru Crosstrek manual transmission at 62,521 miles requiring complete transmission replacement ($10,000 repair, vehicle worth $11,000). EVIDENCE OF DESIGN DEFECT: - Subaru issued TSB 03-83-20R acknowledging shift fork design flaws in 2018-2020 Crosstreks with identical transmission - TSB states original forks required "thicker nylon inserts" proving inadequate design - My VIN (HG269902) is before production change (LG225906), confirming defective pre-improvement design - Shift fork failure can cause sudden inability to shift gears while driving - significant safety hazard MAINTENANCE: Single owner, meticulously maintained with documented service at 20k, 39k, 52k, 58k miles. Never in accident. No abuse. MANUFACTURER RESPONSE: Subaru offered only $1,800 (18% coverage) and blamed my "driving habits" despite TSB proving design defect. REQUEST: NHTSA investigate shift fork failures in 2015-2017 Crosstreks and evaluate if TSB 03-83-20R should extend to these model years. See attached: Complete complaint documentation and TSB 03-83-20R.

In August of 2024, I got into my car in a parking lot and turned the key in the ignition. The car started revving really high. I waited for it to slow down, and then I put it into reverse. The car shot back and would have hit the building if I hadn't slammed on the brakes. Fortunately, there wasn't anyone behind the car at the time, but the woman who had just walked in back of my car to enter the building stood there looking at me. I slowly put my foot on the gas pedal and drove home. The following day, I had a tow truck come and take the car to the dealer. They did a scheduled maintenance service and replace the throttle body. Everything was fine until 9/28/25. I was driving out of a parking lot and entering the street going very slowly, suddenly the car lurched forward very fast, and I had to slam on my brakes to stop it. I drove it home. I notified a friend who knew a mechanic that he said was familiar with this type of issue. He got in touch with the dealership where the car had been serviced, and I got a call from the Service Department manager. He asked me to bring the car in so they could try to find out what the problem was. He said that if they couldn't find out what it was, an engineer might be called in to inspect the car. I am planning on having the car towed to the dealership this week. On neither occasion did any warning lights come on in the car. It was very fortunate that no one was hurt during either incident, but it could have been tragic. I was only about 15 feet away from a crosswalk when the second incident occurred. I read online that the manufacturer is involved in a lawsuit where several other people have had the same experience, although not the same model as my car. I have driven the same brand of car for about fifteen years and have never had a problem before.

The harness on my child's Nuna RAVA loosened during a 30 minute drive home (highway and downtown driving) in May of 2025. I learned later that month that there is a recall on Nuna Ravas for that exact reason. It is available for inspection. My child was not properly secured, and I did not know it until we got home; he could have been killed or seriously injured had we gotten into a collision on that drive. The car seat has not been inspected by anyone. Nuna offered me a “remedy kit” with a screwdriver, a brush, and a mismatched fabric cover, but I am not a safety technician and do not have the time or expertise to take the seat apart myself and still trust it to secure my child. The problem with the harness straps we have is intermittent, and does not replicate when the car is parked and I simply “tug” on the straps. I do not feel that this is an adequate safety test anyway, as it doesn’t replicate the forces or conditions in an accident. I requested a replacement seat, but Nuna denied my request on 7/21 and again on 7/28. Nuna has not supplied crash test results on layperson “repaired” car seats. This defect is the subject of NHTSA actions DP24003 and PE24026. Other RAVA owners have complained that their repaired RAVA still malfunctioned even after using Nuna's "remedy kit." I would like a replacement car seat to ensure my child's safety.

On January 19, 2024 I was slowly pulling in to a parking spot at my doctors office. I did not pull up far enough, as there was a concrete retaining wall at the head of the spot and no tire block for safety. I was maybe 5 feet from the wall when I lightly tapped the gas pedal to inch up (as the back end of the car was sticking out into the passing lane). When I did so, the car slipped into rapid acceleration causing a full head on crash with the retaining wall. I had pressed the break pedal but the brakes did not have enough time to engage before the wall stopped my car. As a result, I had bumper damage, a crooked hood (due to bent hinge on the right side) and a cracked bracket above the light assembly. Thankfully I was not injured, but the repair was costly. I leased this car new in 2017, and am paying off end of lease buyout. I have been the only driver, and I bring my car for regular servicing. At this point I am afraid to drive it because I don't know when or where the next rapid acceleration will occur.

Crash

On January 19, 2024 I was slowly pulling in to a parking spot at my doctors office. I did not pull up far enough, as there was a concrete retaining wall at the head of the spot and no tire block for safety. I was maybe 5 feet from the wall when I lightly tapped the gas pedal to inch up (as the back end of the car was sticking out into the passing lane). When I did so, the car slipped into rapid acceleration causing a full head on crash with the retaining wall. I had pressed the break pedal but the brakes did not have enough time to engage before the wall stopped my car. As a result, I had bumper damage, a crooked hood (due to bent hinge on the right side) and a cracked bracket above the light assembly. Thankfully I was not injured, but the repair was costly. I leased this car new in 2017, and am paying off end of lease buyout. I have been the only driver, and I bring my car for regular servicing. At this point I am afraid to drive it because I don't know when or where the next rapid acceleration will occur.

Crash

There is a battery draining problem. I have had to replace the battery 3 times in a two-year period.

Wheel bearing go out after 40K plus miles. After doing research on my own wheels bearings it appears that this is a very common issue for this vehicle. This is not a lot of miles to have on a car before wheel bearings (rear) go bad. Causing extensive damage if not caught and a safety hazard for those opporating the vehicle.

The car has 26,000 miles and the heat shield over the muffler has shifted and causing a grinding sound against the back wheel. Told the shield had rusted and needed replacement. There were no warning lights, just the grinding sound from the rear of the car.

Greetings: As outlined in Service Bulletin 05-70-19, Rear Wheel Backing Plate Design change, I am having an almost overwhelming “whining or humming” sound coming from the rear portion of my vehicle. Given the significance of this WHEEL BEARING & BACKING PLATE issue, I respectfully request an RECALL & subsequent repair be initiated. Coupled with a VERY large number of related customer issues - globally - this issue should have already met-the-bar for a RECALL vs. Safety Bulletin. It’s obvious there are safety-related design flaws - again, given the overall number of required repairs - and this should be addressed accordingly. Thank you.

Both of the front inner brake pads separated from the backing plate presenting a safety concern since the brake performance was compromised. The front outer brake pads did not separate from the backing plates. All four brake pads were installed by myself along with new rotors in November 2021 and have experienced about 30,000 miles of use. There is plenty of brake pad material remaining. I have experience installing brakes on multiple vehicles and the pads were functional until the pad/backing plate separation. I discovered the issue after hearing a grinding noise from the wheel well while driving. No warning lights were present and other symptoms were not immediately noticeable. The part is available for inspection upon request; however, I was planning on sending both of the defective brake pads to the manufacturer for a warranty claim. I can save one of the two pads for NHTSA inspection, if desired. Please let me know as soon as possible.

- cam carrier leak, resulting in oil leaking from engine. oil is leaking onto catalytic converter sensor causing it to malfunction. - oil leaking from cars poses a safety and environmental hazard. - michael's subaru of bellevue (washington state) has confirmed it occurring, and it is a problem across subaru models according to a number of forum posts from subaru owners, which has been shared with subaru of america. - i have not had it inspected by anyone officially besides michael's subaru of bellevue (washington state). - there was a warning lamp for the catalytic converter, but upon physical inspection of the vehicle the technician discovered it was oil leaking from the cam carrier onto the sensor that caused the warning lights to turn on in the vehicle. - i have included emails i exchanged with subaru of america regarding the issue.

The contact owns a 2017 Subaru Crosstrek. The contact stated while pulling out of her driveway, the steering wheel became stiff, and the power steering warning light illuminated. The contact was able to pull over on the side the road. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the power steering module needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and stated that the vehicle needed to diagnose by a dealer. The failure mileage was 48,300.

12042022 - not sure of cause, could be multiple as all systems just shut down for seconds, the car goes dead while driving down I235 at 70mph, first the radio turns off, then the car seemed to go to lower gear rpm to zero and just shut off at a high speed, NO POWER on anything, then about 2.5 seconds later it restated and continued, sputtered off again then powered back off and on again as i got off the highway, many warning lights came on including the lane warning, brake light, it was very scary at such a high speed. this car now seems to have little continued incidents of the same behavior for what has seemed to be spuratic but regular fits now and I have to have dependable transportation. very easily could have caused an accident if the traffic was heavier when the incident occured.

I drove my car to work one morning (7 min drive through a city; no highways) and there was no crack in the windshield. I came out of work 8 hours later to go home, and there was a crack over 6 inches long in the windshield. There are no markings suggesting anything hit the windshield, only long smooth cracks.

My husband has trouble getting the key out when in park and turn off. Have to use the E-break every time we park because even in park the vehicle seems to get a mind of its own and start to roll. IT ROLLED ON ME WHILE I WAS GETTING MY CHILD OUT OF THE CAR!! NOW my driver side window seems to roll all the way up but right back down with out me touching it. I have to fight the thing for 5mins to get it up! Windshield is cracked. We got it parked it no crack, went out in it and Crack, now I have to pay to get a new Windshield put in because every day just sitting there the Crack gets bigger. Why is there only 1 recall on this thing!? 🤔

Dome light goes has gone on automatically several times. Twice drained my battery. Never use dome light because I do not drive at night and have never turned it on myself.

Out of no where the window chipped and then cracked later that day

The key gets stuck in the ignition. We have to turn the ignition to ACC or start the car then switch it back to OFF multiple times for it to release. We have not had the issue looked at yet. It's easily reproduceable. No other symptoms are present. Subaru issued a recall for this issue for vehicles with a CVT transmission but there are countless complaints of this happening to non-CVT transmission Subaru vehicles.

Windshield cracked out of nowhere resulting in an ~8" damage

Ignition/starting I have issues w starting car on more than one occasion and I have also had problems with removing the key. It almost is in a key lock mode. I will then turn off and on until it will allow me to remove but sometimes it hasn’t started. Stabilizer light came on a few times then shut off on own.

Upon accelerating, the engine seems to bog down and I lose speed. It has happened under many conditions—after turning a corner, going down a straightaway, and when accelerating to merge on a highway. This puts people in the car at risk and others traveling behind me. I took it to the dealer and they said that since they could not replicate it, there was nothing they could do. No warning lights seem to be involved. On the internet, posters refer to this as a "known problem" but no one has come up with a solution, nor have their dealers. It's troublesome. I know the 2018s have had a related problem. It's happened on many dates.

When I put the car in park the key would turn off the car but not come out of the ignition. The only way to get the key out was to turn the car back on and try again, sometimes 5+ times. When I took the car in for repair at a Subaru dealership they said this was a constant Subaru problem and that my shifter plate guide would need to be replaced. They charged me $600 but after searching Subaru forums I found that Subaru will sometimes pay for this repair because it is a known issue with a repair bulletin number (16-112-18). I believe this is a widespread defect and Subaru should pay for all repairs, not simply the repairs of consumers who have the resources to know to call the company.

Key get stuck in ignition and cannot be pulled out after turned off. I've seen this not just happened to crosstrek but all other Subaru models after certain mileage. People tried to restart the car in place, shift gear to d and back to p. More than a dozen people reporting similar problems on subaruxvforum or cargurus.com and a service bulletin (TSB #16-112-18R) issued to this problem, however people can only get repaired with the warranty. Very surprised to see this has not been recalled.

Outer left rear brake pad broke away from the backing plate causing damage to the brake rotor. The pads were original equipment and not worn out.

CV axles click when turning. CV axles could break at any given point. If not fixed you could lose control of your car causing death to yourself or others while driving or render your car driveless. I've looked online and many other 2017 cross track owners have the same problem. So why is this not a recall.

The car key get stuck in ignition and cannot be pulled out after turned off. It is very dangerous in that as workaround, people tried to restart the car in place, shift gear to d and back to p. If they don’t pay atttention and press on brake they could potentially hit cars or people. I’ve seen more than a dozen people reporting similar problems on cargurus.com and a service bulletin but surprised to see this has not been recalled.

On Sunday, 5/9, my wife and I were traveling back from NY to Philadelphia when out of nowhere, my car stopped accelerating and stalled, completely, in the left lane on the Staten Island Expressway. I called 911 and they were able to dispatch a tow, immediately. The battery worked. The dashboard said to check the engine. Luckily, the tow arrived in about 5-10 minutes. The driver escorted us out to his truck and protected us from oncoming traffic. We were brought to a safe location and were able to start the car (and it kept running), without any assistance. We were too afraid to continue the ride back to Philadelphia (lots more distance and highways to go). We called AAA to tow the vehicle to my Subaru dealership in PA. This has never happened before. One strange thing that has been happening over the last few months is that sometimes our key will get stuck in the ignition when we try to turn the car off. We are able to turn off the battery, but are unable to turn the key further. We have to try several times or even put the car in drive and then park before trying to turn it off again. I am not sure if this is connected. The service at my dealership has been very nice. They’ve had my car for over a week. Unfortunately, they haven’t found anything wrong. They’ve checked for codes and nothing’s come up to indicate any issues. I am really at a loss because I do not feel safe driving this vehicle. I did see that there is a new recall (https://www.consumerreports.org/car-recalls-defects/subaru-recalls-crosstrek-forester-impreza-for-safety-concerns/) but it does not include my particular year. I wonder if this problem actually involves 2017 Crosstreks. I do not feel safe driving my car.

I DROVE APPROXIMATELY 100 MINUTES TO CENTRAL ILLINOIS ON A 80 DEGREE AND SUNNY AFTERNOON. I PARKED MY CAR ON THE STREET AND WHEN I RETURNED TO IT 45 MINUTES LATER, THERE WAS A 12INCH CRACK ON MY PASSENGER SIDE WINDSHIELD. THERE WAS NO APPARENT POINT OF CONTACT IN THE CRACK AND THERE WERE NO LARGE STICKS OR BRANCHES ON THE CAR. IT APPEARED AS IF THE CRACK HAPPENED ON ITS OWN. I GOT THE CRACK REPAIRED RECENTLY AND IT COST OVER $1,000 TO FIX.

WINDSHIELD HAS HORIZONTAL CRACK MIDWAY DOWN WINDOW THAT EXTENDS ALMOST FROM LEFT TO RIGHT EDGE. CAR WAS PARKED IN PRIVATE DRIVEWAY.

WINDSHIELD WAS CRACKED. STARTED OUT ALONG BOTTOM ON DRIVER'S SIDE AND EXPANDED UP AND ACROSS DRIVER'S SIDE. FROM WHAT I COULD TELL, NOTHING HIT THE WINDSHIELD TO INITIATE THE CRACK. HAD TO GET REPLACED.

READ WINDSHIELD GLASS SPONTANEOUSLY BROKE WITH NO DAMAGE. HAD TO GET SERVICE TO REPAIR AND REPLACE. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY, PARKED IN FRONT OF MY HOUSE, ON A RESIDENTIAL STREET, PARKED AND NOT IN USE AT THE TIME OF THE BREAK.

I HAVE AN 'L' SHAPED CRACK IN MY WINDSHIELD THAT IS APPROXIMATELY 6"X6". THE WINDSHIELD SUSTAINED A SMALL CHIP FROM A ROCK STRIKE AND BEFORE I COULD GET THE SUPERFICIAL CHIP FIXED IT TURNED INTO A VERY LARGE 'L' SHAPED CRACK. THE ROCK STRIKE OCCURRED WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY BUT THE SUBSEQUENT CRACK OCCURRED WHILE THE CAR WAS STATIONARY IN MY DRIVEWAY. I WAS SITTING IN THE CAR WHEN THE WINDOW CRACKED AND OTHER THAN IT BEING A SUMMER DAY THE CIRCUMSTANCES LEADING UP TO THE CRACKING WINDSHIELD WERE NORMAL. THE PICTURE PROVIDED WITH THIS COMPLAINT SHOWS THE CRACK. I TRIED TO OUTLINE THE CRACKED AREA WITH YELLOW TO MAKE IT MORE EVIDENT. THE OTHER LINES IN THE PHOTO ARE A REFLECTION OF THE OVERHANGING POWERLINES.

THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED DURING THE SUMMER FOR NO APPARENT REASON, NO OBVIOUS SIGNS OF CHIP IN WINDSHIELD SURFACE. CRACK STARTS UPPER MIDDLE EDGE OF GLASS, DOWN PASSED REARVIEW MIRROR, THEN HALF WAY ACROSS PASSENGER SIDE, ABOUT 1/3 WAY DOWN FROM TOP. WE ARE GETTING IT REPLACED NOW.

WINDSHIELD IS CRACKING FOR NO CERTAIN REASON.

I WAS OPERATING MY 2017 SUBARU CROSSTREK ON UNION ST IN BRAINTREE MA. I STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT. THE LIGHT TURNED GREEN. I THEN DEPRESSED THE GAS PEDAL. I HEARD A BANG AND THE VEHICLE STARTED TO ROLL BACK. THE TRANSMISSION HAD CEASED TO OPERATE. I LUCKILY WAS ABLE TO NAVIGATE TO THE CURB BACKWARDS. THE TRANSMISSION DID GO INTO PARK BUT WOULD NOT OPERATE OTHERWISE. I HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP,CLAY SUBARU, NORWOOD MA. THEY LATER INFORMED ME THAT THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE HAD BLOWN. THAT ALONG WITH SOME OTHER ELECTRICAL WIRING NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. BUT THEY SAID THIS WOULD NOT BE COVERED BY THE EXTENDED WARRANTY BECAUSE IT WAS NOT COVERED. IF THIS HAD GONE FIVE MINUTES SOONER I WOULD HAVE BEEN ON THE CROWDED HIGHWAY GOING 55 TO 60 MPH I FIND OUT THAT SUBARU AND THE NHTSA KNOW ABOUT THE PROBLEMS WITH THE TRANSMISSION BUT ARE NOT WILLING TO DO ANYTHING UNTIL SOMEONE IS KILLED. I REALLY DON'T WANT MYSELF OR MY WIFE TO BE TEST CASES. I AM NOW INFORMED BY SUBARU THAT IT WILL COST ME OVER 2000 DOLLARS TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. SINCE IT IS ELECTRICAL IT COULD BE JUST BE THE TIP OF THE ICEBERG.

SINCE THE CAR WAS NEW (CURRENTLY 55,000 MILES ON IT) THE AIR BAG RED MALFUNCTION LIGHT HAS INTERMITTENTLY COME ON WHEN I HAVE A PASSENGER IN THE PASSENGER SEAT. ALSO, AT TIMES, THE DASHBOARD WILL REGISTER THAT THE AIRBAG IS OFF WHEN THERE IS A PASSENGER. I MENTIONED THIS TO DEALER EARLY ON, BUT WAS TOLD BECAUSE THE LIGHT WAS NOT ON WHEN I BROUGHT THE CAR IN, THERE WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO. IT HAS CONTINUED, AND I NOTICED THAT SEEMS TO HAPPEN AFTER OR DURING HEAVY RAINS. MOST RECENTLY I TOOK A VIDEO OF THE LIGHT ON AND PANNED TO THE PASSENGER TO SHOW THERE WAS A PASSENGER IN THE SEAT. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER THIS WEEK (OF COURSE THE LIGHT HAD GONE OFF) AND WAS TOLD THAT THERE DOES SEEM TO BE A PROBLEM WITH MOISTURE IN THE AIR THAT THEY ARE SEEING WITH OTHER CARS AS WELL. BUT, WAS AGAIN TOLD SINCE THERE WAS NO LIGHT, THEY COULD NOT CHECK TO SEE WHAT WAS WRONG. I CALLED AND SPOKE WITH CUSTOMER SERVICE AT SUBARU HEADQUARTERS, DAVID AT 856 356-1190. HE SPOKE WITH DEALER AND WAS GOING TO SUGGEST AN ENGINEER LOOK AT VEHICLE, BUT JUST GOT BACK TO ME AND SINCE THERE IS NO HISTORY OF FAILED ATTEMPTS TO FIX THIS, AND THE LIGHT IS NOT CURRENTLY ON, WAS TOLD THEY COULD DO NOTHING, AND THAT I SHOULD BRING THE CAR BACK IN WHEN THE LIGHT IS ON. I AM FURIOUS. I AM DRIVING AROUND WITH A PASSENGER WHO IS OCCASIONALLY NOT PROTECTED BY AN AIRBAG. THEY ADMIT THERE IS AN ISSUE AND EVEN HAVE A PROCEDURE ON WHAT TO DO TO RESET THE LIGHT. BUT, I WORK DURING THE DAY, AND WHEN I HAVE PASSENGERS IN THE CAR, IT IS IN THE EVENING OR ON THE WEEKEND. SO, EVEN IF A LIGHT COMES ON, THE DEALER IS NOT OPEN AT THOSE TIMES, AND BY THE TIME I GET THERE WHEN THEY ARE OPEN, THE LIGHT IS OFF. THERE WILL NEVER BE A HISTORY OF FAILED ATTEMPTS TO REPAIR AS THEY NEVER SEE THE LIGHT ON, DESPITE ME SHOWING THEM THE VIDEO I TOOK. MY PASSENGERS ARE IN DANGER, AND THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE.

I FOUND OUR 2017 CROSSTREK SUBARU WITH AUTOSTART CAPABILITY IN OUR CLOSED GARAGE, LOCKED, RUNNING, WITH NO KEY IN THE IGNITION AT 8 AM. THE TWO AUTOSTART FOBS WERE SHUT UP IN A DRAWER. THE CAR HAD LAST BEEN DRIVEN TO WORK AND BACK THE DAY BEFORE, RETURNING ABOUT 5 PM. OUR CO DETECTOR IN THE HOUSE DID NOT GO OFF AND NO ONE WAS HURT (LUCKILY). WE HAVE SINCE HAD THE AUTOSTART DISCONNECTED AND BELIEVE OUR VEHICLE SHOULD BE RECALLED FOR SAFETY. THIS IS SIMILAR TO REPORTS ABOUT 2010-2013 SUBARUS WITH AUTOSTART WHERE ALMOST 50,000 VEHICLES WERE RECALLED. SEE HTTPS://WWW.USATODAY.COM/STORY/DRIVEON/2013/03/07/SUBARU-RECALL/1971825/

STEREO SYSTEM FREEZES. TOUCH SCREEN INACCESSIBLE. GLITCHES CONSTANTLY. NOT ABLE TO ACCESS ANY APPS, NAVIGATION, STARLINK, ETC.

CAN'T REMOVE IGNITION KEY. AFTER PARKING, I PLACE THE CAR IN PARK, AND TRY TO REMOVE THE KEY. IT GETS STUCK AND WON'T COME OUT. THERE IS A TECHNICAL BULLETING ABOUT "SHIFT SELECTER MECHANISM" BUT CAR OWNERS HAVE TO PAY GET THIS FIXED. IT SHOULD BE A RECALL.

REOCCURRING PROBLEM OF SELECT LEVER (SHIFTER) MECHANISM NOT BEING ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. CURRENTLY UNABLE TO CONFIDENTLY USE VEHICLE BECAUSE THE KEY IS REPEATEDLY STUCK AND IT REQUIRES SEVERAL BACK AND FORTH, IGNITION ON AND OFF, ACTIONS BEFORE CAR TURNS OFF AND KEY CAN BE REMOVED.