2021 HONDA PASSPORT

I bought my car in 2021. Two weeks ago 4-5 dashboard signs came up on my screen. I contacted local dealer and they said they need nearly $3000 to fix it. I told them it’s a safety issue and they refused to budge. I complained to Honda through X and they refused to help me. They are not taking it seriously

I bought my car in 2021. Two weeks ago 4-5 dashboard signs came up on my screen. I contacted local dealer and they said they need nearly $3000 to fix it. I told them it’s a safety issue and they refused to budge. I complained to Honda through X and they refused to help me. They are not taking it seriously

I bought my car in 2021. Two weeks ago 4-5 dashboard signs came up on my screen. I contacted local dealer and they said they need nearly $3000 to fix it. I told them it’s a safety issue and they refused to budge. I complained to Honda through X and they refused to help me. They are not taking it seriously

I purchased a used 2021 Passport the end of May 2025. While driving, the 'collision mitigation braking system' or CMBS would activate the braking system and would intermittently just brake, causing panic for not only myself, but I'm sure drivers behind me for suddenly braking with no imminent threat in from of me. This happened multiple times without receiving any warning or notifications, just suddenly. It would happen without warning, or sometimes nearing a bridge or a cover plate on the road, which almost caused accidents multiple times to get rear ended. I have driven for decades and never felt anxiety until I drove this vehicle for a few months. I felt scared driving this vehicle, feeling uncertain when it would suddenly just brake. Eventually after a few months of driving, I got a reading that said CMBS problem on the screen. I scheduled an appointment with the dealer. The dealer suggested a near $3000 replacement for a camera (on a 2021 vehicle). At the appointment, I ultimately returned this vehicle to the dealer where I bought it and unfortunately lost out on thousands of dollars after having the vehicle about 6 months. I have always liked Honda, and have had 2 prior Hondas, but with this vehicle purchase, I felt the most unsafe I have ever felt in a vehicle, and moving forward will not feel comfortable purchasing Honda.

I purchased a used 2021 Passport the end of May 2025. While driving, the 'collision mitigation braking system' or CMBS would activate the braking system and would intermittently just brake, causing panic for not only myself, but I'm sure drivers behind me for suddenly braking with no imminent threat in from of me. This happened multiple times without receiving any warning or notifications, just suddenly. It would happen without warning, or sometimes nearing a bridge or a cover plate on the road, which almost caused accidents multiple times to get rear ended. I have driven for decades and never felt anxiety until I drove this vehicle for a few months. I felt scared driving this vehicle, feeling uncertain when it would suddenly just brake. Eventually after a few months of driving, I got a reading that said CMBS problem on the screen. I scheduled an appointment with the dealer. The dealer suggested a near $3000 replacement for a camera (on a 2021 vehicle). At the appointment, I ultimately returned this vehicle to the dealer where I bought it and unfortunately lost out on thousands of dollars after having the vehicle about 6 months. I have always liked Honda, and have had 2 prior Hondas, but with this vehicle purchase, I felt the most unsafe I have ever felt in a vehicle, and moving forward will not feel comfortable purchasing Honda.

I purchased a used 2021 Passport the end of May 2025. While driving, the 'collision mitigation braking system' or CMBS would activate the braking system and would intermittently just brake, causing panic for not only myself, but I'm sure drivers behind me for suddenly braking with no imminent threat in from of me. This happened multiple times without receiving any warning or notifications, just suddenly. It would happen without warning, or sometimes nearing a bridge or a cover plate on the road, which almost caused accidents multiple times to get rear ended. I have driven for decades and never felt anxiety until I drove this vehicle for a few months. I felt scared driving this vehicle, feeling uncertain when it would suddenly just brake. Eventually after a few months of driving, I got a reading that said CMBS problem on the screen. I scheduled an appointment with the dealer. The dealer suggested a near $3000 replacement for a camera (on a 2021 vehicle). At the appointment, I ultimately returned this vehicle to the dealer where I bought it and unfortunately lost out on thousands of dollars after having the vehicle about 6 months. I have always liked Honda, and have had 2 prior Hondas, but with this vehicle purchase, I felt the most unsafe I have ever felt in a vehicle, and moving forward will not feel comfortable purchasing Honda.

After having constant issues with the idle stop and the car alarm going off in the middle of the night and day for no apparent reason I took it to the dealer to get it fixed. After supposedly fixing the idle stop, about two weeks later I was going up a ramp during a heavy traffic hour and the car completely shot down. It took me a few minutes to get it back on. I’ve had issues with this car from day one (brand new). I’m currently trying to get another car.

During an oil change my magnetic drain plug was caked with magnetic gray material with specks of silver flake in it. This oil change has 6142 miles on it. I am concerned because my passport was built in Sept of 2020 right at the transition of the previously recalled j35 motors were produced. Car has been serviced at the Honda dealer since new except last 2 oil changes which were performed by me.

Auto idle malfunctioned. At a stop light the engine turned off and it took 5 minutes to restart the engine. No warning lights or messages appeared before it happened. Had the PGM-Fl Idle stop software update done 9/16/23 at 17,582 miles. Took to dealer they could not re create , the car has 46,359 miles now. This is 2nd vehicle this has happened to me , other vehicle same exact auto idle problem started at 60,000 and I drove it for 13,000 miles experiencing stalling out at lights and in stop and go traffic for over a year ( very dangerous and scary experience ) I took it to 2 different Honda dealers numerous times before they finally replaced starter assembly , starter relays and adjusted the valves per the March 2023 warranty extension notice .

One day the lights just started flashing. Took to dealer and was told that someone must have backed into me and would be about $2500 to replace the camera (which is behind the windshield). Occasionally it will function but clearly seems to be a malfunction. In research online there appear to be many others that have experienced the same issue - can’t just be a coincidence. Shouldn’t happen on a reliable four/five year old car

One day the lights just started flashing. Took to dealer and was told that someone must have backed into me and would be about $2500 to replace the camera (which is behind the windshield). Occasionally it will function but clearly seems to be a malfunction. In research online there appear to be many others that have experienced the same issue - can’t just be a coincidence. Shouldn’t happen on a reliable four/five year old car

One day the lights just started flashing. Took to dealer and was told that someone must have backed into me and would be about $2500 to replace the camera (which is behind the windshield). Occasionally it will function but clearly seems to be a malfunction. In research online there appear to be many others that have experienced the same issue - can’t just be a coincidence. Shouldn’t happen on a reliable four/five year old car

WHEN ATTEMPTING TO MERGE ONTO A SECONDARY ROAD AFTER EXITING THE INTERSTATE ENGINE POWER WASNT THERE AND THE CAR FELT AS IT WAS GOING TO EVENTUALLY JUST DIE. THIS HAPPENED WHEN THE CAR HAD BEEN DRIVEN OVER 50 MILES, SO IT WAS AT OPERATING TEMP.. REMOVING FOOT OFF THE THROTTLE AND REALPPLYING SEVERAL TIMES HAD THE CAR RETURN TO FULL POWER. LUCKILY, FOR THIS INCIDENT, TRAFFIC WAS LIGHT AND THE MERGE LANE WAS LONG. SO FAR THIS HAS OCCURED TWICE IN THE MONTYH OF JANUARY 2026.

During a winter storm in approximately 10°F weather, my vehicle became immobilized due to a no-start condition. The starter initially engaged and cranked the engine several times, then failed and would only free-spin without turning the engine. After this occurred, the vehicle could not be shifted into neutral because it is equipped with an electronic shift-by-wire transmission. The only method to move the vehicle requires a proprietary Honda mechanical neutral-release tool (07AAA-TZ3A100). This tool was not supplied with the vehicle, was not available to the owner or responding tow operators, costs over $200, and local Honda dealerships do not carry it in stock. As a result, it was not possible to obtain the tool in an emergency situation. Two flatbed tow trucks responded. Both operators stated the only way to load the vehicle would be to drag it while locked in park, which would likely cause damage to the transmission, drivetrain, or tires. This was not a safe or acceptable option. As a result, occupants were stranded from approximately 1:00 PM until 6:30 PM in 10°F weather with no heat, because the vehicle could not be moved. A single common mechanical failure should not render a vehicle completely immobile with no accessible emergency override. Requiring a costly, proprietary tool that is not provided with the vehicle and not available to dealers or emergency responders creates a serious safety risk due to cold exposure and inability to move or clear the vehicle during emergency conditions.

Was driving 47 mph at 12:35 EST on a clear sunny day and car braked automatically. No car in front of me.

Was driving 47 mph at 12:35 EST on a clear sunny day and car braked automatically. No car in front of me.

During a normal drive we came to a stoplight, seconds after stopping, an emissions alert displayed along with transmission and VSA (I think). Upon seeing these codes I began to drive into a gas station and the vehicle barely moved with little power. We were able to park about 40 feet away and the vehicle would not move any further. This sounds similar to the existing recall but this model year is not included. I had to have the vehicle towed.

During a normal drive we came to a stoplight, seconds after stopping, an emissions alert displayed along with transmission and VSA (I think). Upon seeing these codes I began to drive into a gas station and the vehicle barely moved with little power. We were able to park about 40 feet away and the vehicle would not move any further. This sounds similar to the existing recall but this model year is not included. I had to have the vehicle towed.

Vehicle has been having AIS issues for a couple of years, requiring new batteries, new starter/relays and countless internal computer updates (none of which have helped btw...). This morning she had the AIS engaged, went to turn left at a green light and when she released the brake the vehicle threw itself into Neutral and flashed a "Auto Idle Stop System Problem" message on the dash. She put it into park and tried to restart, which failed, she then had to turn the vehicle off completely and restart from there. As I mentioned, none of the computer updates Honda has done for this vehicle have helped and it's my understanding there is a block of vehicles in this age range (all Passports, Ridgelines and Pilots) that continue to have problems with the AIS as well. Honda needs to disable this "feature" on any vehicles they cannot fix via computer updates IMMEDIATELY before they get someone killed. Not to mention, we are sick and tired of having to replace the battery and/or starter every couple of years. Honda should not be putting tax breaks above their customers safety and satisfaction. You know it's bad when their 30+ year techs go out of their way to buy a used Honda just to avoid the AIS because they don't know what to do with it at this point either.

Vehicle has been having AIS issues for a couple of years, requiring new batteries, new starter/relays and countless internal computer updates (none of which have helped btw...). This morning she had the AIS engaged, went to turn left at a green light and when she released the brake the vehicle threw itself into Neutral and flashed a "Auto Idle Stop System Problem" message on the dash. She put it into park and tried to restart, which failed, she then had to turn the vehicle off completely and restart from there. As I mentioned, none of the computer updates Honda has done for this vehicle have helped and it's my understanding there is a block of vehicles in this age range (all Passports, Ridgelines and Pilots) that continue to have problems with the AIS as well. Honda needs to disable this "feature" on any vehicles they cannot fix via computer updates IMMEDIATELY before they get someone killed. Not to mention, we are sick and tired of having to replace the battery and/or starter every couple of years. Honda should not be putting tax breaks above their customers safety and satisfaction. You know it's bad when their 30+ year techs go out of their way to buy a used Honda just to avoid the AIS because they don't know what to do with it at this point either.

SRS warning light came on. Diagnostic found Code U3000-49 Internal Failure of the SRS unit-Seat weight sensors on front passenger seat Front seat lower frame/rail required replacement and was completed by the dealer at my out of pocket cost. This vehicle was not included in the Honda 750,000 vehicle recall for this same defect. Reference Notice 24-050

Car slammed on brakes while on interstate, the system likes to say brake, brake, brake, when there is nothing to brake for but a few days ago it actually took action and slammed on brakes on the freeway.

The contact owns a 2021 Honda Passport. The contact stated that while depressing the accelerator pedal, there was an abnormal sound coming from the vehicle. In addition, the vehicle vibrated abnormally and drove roughly. No warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, but was not diagnosed or repaired. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, where it was diagnosed, and determined that the high-pressure fuel pump had failed and needed to be replaced. The dealer suggested that the fuel injector and throttle body needed to be cleaned; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired due to the cost. The contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 23V858000 (FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE); however, the VIN was not included in the recall. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 140,000.

No incident has occurred. However, my concern is that a recall was issued on February 1, 2024 (NHTSA Recall Number 24V-064), and as of October 31, 2025, Honda is still stating that parts are not available to complete the repair. I first contacted Honda in March 2025—over a year after the recall was issued—and was informed that the necessary parts were still unavailable. I called again in October 2025, and received the same response. We are now approaching two years since this recall was announced, and it is unacceptable and inexcusable that Honda has yet to provide the parts needed to correct this safety issue.

No incident has occurred. However, my concern is that a recall was issued on February 1, 2024 (NHTSA Recall Number 24V-064), and as of October 31, 2025, Honda is still stating that parts are not available to complete the repair. I first contacted Honda in March 2025—over a year after the recall was issued—and was informed that the necessary parts were still unavailable. I called again in October 2025, and received the same response. We are now approaching two years since this recall was announced, and it is unacceptable and inexcusable that Honda has yet to provide the parts needed to correct this safety issue.

The contact owns a 2021 Honda Passport. The contact stated that upon starting the vehicle, there was an abnormal knocking sound coming from the engine compartment. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who diagnosed a failure with the connecting rod bearing in cylinder #3, resulting in damage to the engine. The vehicle was not repaired. After investigating the failure, the contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 23V751000 (Engine and Engine Cooling); however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, a case was opened, and the contact was referred to the NHTSA Hotline for assistance. The failure mileage was 73,000.

To preface: All of these issues only occur when the engine idle feature is on. I have not experienced any of these problems when the feature is off. Question #1: When I release the brake with the engine idle on, the vehicle will sometimes completely shut off. When this happens, the steering wheel and brakes lock up, and I am unable to restart the vehicle for at least 60 seconds. Question #2: On one occasion, my wife, our 8-month-old child, and I were stuck at a green light for about 60 seconds while unable to restart the vehicle. Cars were passing by at over 50 mph, and we were relying on other drivers to notice us in time. This situation has happened multiple times and poses a serious safety risk to both us and others on the road. Question #3: I have not taken the vehicle in for service because the issue is difficult to reproduce consistently. That uncertainty is part of the problem, along with the anxiety of not knowing whether the car will suddenly shut off. Question #4: For the same reason, I have not been able to demonstrate the problem on demand. However, the main concern is that I should not have to worry about my vehicle stalling when I go to accelerate. Question #5: The vehicle has completely shut off four separate times over the past year. On one occasion, after releasing the brake, the engine struggled to reach normal RPMs and the check engine light came on. I pulled over, turned the vehicle off, restarted it, and it seemed fine afterward, although it had noticeably less power while the check engine light was on. Lastly, there have been several instances where the engine did not completely shut off when the idle feature was on, but when I released the brake to accelerate, I heard a clicking sound and the vehicle seemed as though it was about to stall. It then resumed operation normally as the idle system re-engaged. Since this happens intermittently, it has been difficult to recreate during a diagnostic inspection.

To preface: All of these issues only occur when the engine idle feature is on. I have not experienced any of these problems when the feature is off. Question #1: When I release the brake with the engine idle on, the vehicle will sometimes completely shut off. When this happens, the steering wheel and brakes lock up, and I am unable to restart the vehicle for at least 60 seconds. Question #2: On one occasion, my wife, our 8-month-old child, and I were stuck at a green light for about 60 seconds while unable to restart the vehicle. Cars were passing by at over 50 mph, and we were relying on other drivers to notice us in time. This situation has happened multiple times and poses a serious safety risk to both us and others on the road. Question #3: I have not taken the vehicle in for service because the issue is difficult to reproduce consistently. That uncertainty is part of the problem, along with the anxiety of not knowing whether the car will suddenly shut off. Question #4: For the same reason, I have not been able to demonstrate the problem on demand. However, the main concern is that I should not have to worry about my vehicle stalling when I go to accelerate. Question #5: The vehicle has completely shut off four separate times over the past year. On one occasion, after releasing the brake, the engine struggled to reach normal RPMs and the check engine light came on. I pulled over, turned the vehicle off, restarted it, and it seemed fine afterward, although it had noticeably less power while the check engine light was on. Lastly, there have been several instances where the engine did not completely shut off when the idle feature was on, but when I released the brake to accelerate, I heard a clicking sound and the vehicle seemed as though it was about to stall. It then resumed operation normally as the idle system re-engaged. Since this happens intermittently, it has been difficult to recreate during a diagnostic inspection.

To preface: All of these issues only occur when the engine idle feature is on. I have not experienced any of these problems when the feature is off. Question #1: When I release the brake with the engine idle on, the vehicle will sometimes completely shut off. When this happens, the steering wheel and brakes lock up, and I am unable to restart the vehicle for at least 60 seconds. Question #2: On one occasion, my wife, our 8-month-old child, and I were stuck at a green light for about 60 seconds while unable to restart the vehicle. Cars were passing by at over 50 mph, and we were relying on other drivers to notice us in time. This situation has happened multiple times and poses a serious safety risk to both us and others on the road. Question #3: I have not taken the vehicle in for service because the issue is difficult to reproduce consistently. That uncertainty is part of the problem, along with the anxiety of not knowing whether the car will suddenly shut off. Question #4: For the same reason, I have not been able to demonstrate the problem on demand. However, the main concern is that I should not have to worry about my vehicle stalling when I go to accelerate. Question #5: The vehicle has completely shut off four separate times over the past year. On one occasion, after releasing the brake, the engine struggled to reach normal RPMs and the check engine light came on. I pulled over, turned the vehicle off, restarted it, and it seemed fine afterward, although it had noticeably less power while the check engine light was on. Lastly, there have been several instances where the engine did not completely shut off when the idle feature was on, but when I released the brake to accelerate, I heard a clicking sound and the vehicle seemed as though it was about to stall. It then resumed operation normally as the idle system re-engaged. Since this happens intermittently, it has been difficult to recreate during a diagnostic inspection.

I own the 2021 Honda Passport (Touring). On numerous occasions while making left or right turns. The truck will decelerate by itself, and the engine will rev up and the RPM increase but the truck fails to respond when the accelerator pedal is depressed. I continue to press the accelerator pedal, and the truck eventually appears to catch up with its speed. Very dangerous when trying to enter from expressway lane. There also are occasions on straight lane take offs that truck appears sluggish in normal gear shifting.

CMBS (Collision Mitigation Braking System) Problem

CMBS (Collision Mitigation Braking System) Problem

My Passport has shut down 4 times recently while idling at a stop. There is a auto start/stop feature on the car that shuts down the engine at stops until the brake is released. The problem is that it sometimes does not restart after releasing the brake. The first 3 times it happened at an intersection so it was no big deal. The last time, today, it stalled on a highway as soon as I stopped for heavy traffic. The car was automatically put it neutral and it took me about 40-50 seconds to realize what happened and to restart while the lanes next to me started moving at highway speeds. I looked up the problem online and saw a "Honda Idle-Stop Class Action Suit ([XXX])" and found out that it is happening to others as well. [XXX] I am not looking for money but want this to be looked at. I will be taking my vehicle in for repairs at a Honda dealership later this week. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

My Passport has shut down 4 times recently while idling at a stop. There is a auto start/stop feature on the car that shuts down the engine at stops until the brake is released. The problem is that it sometimes does not restart after releasing the brake. The first 3 times it happened at an intersection so it was no big deal. The last time, today, it stalled on a highway as soon as I stopped for heavy traffic. The car was automatically put it neutral and it took me about 40-50 seconds to realize what happened and to restart while the lanes next to me started moving at highway speeds. I looked up the problem online and saw a "Honda Idle-Stop Class Action Suit ([XXX])" and found out that it is happening to others as well. [XXX] I am not looking for money but want this to be looked at. I will be taking my vehicle in for repairs at a Honda dealership later this week. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

When I turn on the car, the "BRAKE SYSTEM" warning light appears, along with several alerts that disable all Honda safety features, including: 1. Road Departure Mitigation System Problem 2. Auto High-Beam Problem 3. Adaptive Cruise Control Problem 4. Lane Keeping Assist Problem 5. Collision Mitigation System Problem After taking the vehicle to a Honda dealership, the diagnosis was a failure of the Multipurpose Camera Unit and/or the Millimeter Wave Radar. Unfortunately, this is a common issue affecting several Honda models, including the Clarity, Fit, Pilot, Passport, and CR-V. Due to high demand and limited supply, the camera unit is currently sold out nationwide with no estimated restock date. Repairing this issue is expected to cost approximately $2,600, with no set timeline for when the parts will become available.

When I turn on the car, the "BRAKE SYSTEM" warning light appears, along with several alerts that disable all Honda safety features, including: 1. Road Departure Mitigation System Problem 2. Auto High-Beam Problem 3. Adaptive Cruise Control Problem 4. Lane Keeping Assist Problem 5. Collision Mitigation System Problem After taking the vehicle to a Honda dealership, the diagnosis was a failure of the Multipurpose Camera Unit and/or the Millimeter Wave Radar. Unfortunately, this is a common issue affecting several Honda models, including the Clarity, Fit, Pilot, Passport, and CR-V. Due to high demand and limited supply, the camera unit is currently sold out nationwide with no estimated restock date. Repairing this issue is expected to cost approximately $2,600, with no set timeline for when the parts will become available.

When I turn on the car, the "BRAKE SYSTEM" warning light appears, along with several alerts that disable all Honda safety features, including: 1. Road Departure Mitigation System Problem 2. Auto High-Beam Problem 3. Adaptive Cruise Control Problem 4. Lane Keeping Assist Problem 5. Collision Mitigation System Problem After taking the vehicle to a Honda dealership, the diagnosis was a failure of the Multipurpose Camera Unit and/or the Millimeter Wave Radar. Unfortunately, this is a common issue affecting several Honda models, including the Clarity, Fit, Pilot, Passport, and CR-V. Due to high demand and limited supply, the camera unit is currently sold out nationwide with no estimated restock date. Repairing this issue is expected to cost approximately $2,600, with no set timeline for when the parts will become available.

my vehicle shut off during idle for energy compensation. It failed to restart and allow the vehicle to be in drive causing the car to stall out and not turn back on.

I was driving along at 65 miles an hour when the car randomly threw itself into neutral. I turned the car off restarted it drive a little bit. It continued to happen over and over and it usually does not matter on the speed. After the transmission replacement, the transmission still continues to hit hard on third and fourth gear..

The rod bearings failed requiring a new motor. The vehicle is available for inspection. My safety is at risk as well as the risk of others because the vehicle is not able to be driven. The problem has been confirmed by Ziegler Honda of Racine. They formed a diagnostic test and quoted me $6K+ repair. There were no warning lamps and this issues started about 1 week ago.

Owned the 2021 Honda Passport for 4 years and have had multiple issues over that time. 1st. Electrical issues. Randomly while driving the center/head unit will continuously restart on a loop until vehicle is turned off and turned back on. 2nd. The speakers make crackling noises randomly while driving. Even when the audio/speakers are turned off the crackling continues. (Very loud and annoying) 3rd. The Passport sometimes shuts off completely when stopped at red lights and has difficultly turning back on / restarting. This showed an error that there was a battery issue, which the battery had just been replaced a month or two earlier. It said something about being in accessory mode. 4th. The sensor that tracks oncoming traffic goes off sporadically. There are times on single lane roads that the car forces the breaks on because it senses cars on the other side. 5th. There has been issues while accelerating that feel like the car is having trouble shifting. It continues to rev but not go, when letting off the gas it almost feels like its doing an engine break to get back down to a certain rpm or something. Had the whole car bouncing, had to pull over and turn off the car to get it to start working properly. *** All of that said, this car has been and continues to feel unsafe to drive for multiple reasons listed above. I'd be more than happy to go into more detail for them if needed. ***

Owned the 2021 Honda Passport for 4 years and have had multiple issues over that time. 1st. Electrical issues. Randomly while driving the center/head unit will continuously restart on a loop until vehicle is turned off and turned back on. 2nd. The speakers make crackling noises randomly while driving. Even when the audio/speakers are turned off the crackling continues. (Very loud and annoying) 3rd. The Passport sometimes shuts off completely when stopped at red lights and has difficultly turning back on / restarting. This showed an error that there was a battery issue, which the battery had just been replaced a month or two earlier. It said something about being in accessory mode. 4th. The sensor that tracks oncoming traffic goes off sporadically. There are times on single lane roads that the car forces the breaks on because it senses cars on the other side. 5th. There has been issues while accelerating that feel like the car is having trouble shifting. It continues to rev but not go, when letting off the gas it almost feels like its doing an engine break to get back down to a certain rpm or something. Had the whole car bouncing, had to pull over and turn off the car to get it to start working properly. *** All of that said, this car has been and continues to feel unsafe to drive for multiple reasons listed above. I'd be more than happy to go into more detail for them if needed. ***

Owned the 2021 Honda Passport for 4 years and have had multiple issues over that time. 1st. Electrical issues. Randomly while driving the center/head unit will continuously restart on a loop until vehicle is turned off and turned back on. 2nd. The speakers make crackling noises randomly while driving. Even when the audio/speakers are turned off the crackling continues. (Very loud and annoying) 3rd. The Passport sometimes shuts off completely when stopped at red lights and has difficultly turning back on / restarting. This showed an error that there was a battery issue, which the battery had just been replaced a month or two earlier. It said something about being in accessory mode. 4th. The sensor that tracks oncoming traffic goes off sporadically. There are times on single lane roads that the car forces the breaks on because it senses cars on the other side. 5th. There has been issues while accelerating that feel like the car is having trouble shifting. It continues to rev but not go, when letting off the gas it almost feels like its doing an engine break to get back down to a certain rpm or something. Had the whole car bouncing, had to pull over and turn off the car to get it to start working properly. *** All of that said, this car has been and continues to feel unsafe to drive for multiple reasons listed above. I'd be more than happy to go into more detail for them if needed. ***

Concerns with the brake master cylinder and brake booster. Bolts not torqued enough during manufacturing. I had an independent inspection completed on 6/4/25. Technician determined the bolts were not torqued properly. Concern is my brakes could fail causing fatal crash

2021 car manufactured. 10/2022 car purchased used/certified from Honda dealer. 12/10/2023 Car would not start. All lights not working. Called roadside assistance. While waiting, approximately 30 minutes later, tried starting the vehicle and it started. 12/11/2023 Took the car to the dealership, still under warranty, dealership replaced the battery 5/6/2025 car would not start. Waited approximately 10 minutes, tried starting the vehicle and it started. Dashlights were working, batter light did not come on. 5/6/2025 Took car to the dealership, battery not under warranty. was told they would replace the battery for $400-$500 or I could have a diagnosis performed for $150. I declined both because it has only been 1 year and 5 months since the battery had been replaced. I feel like its another issue and it should be looked into for free. The manager would not meet my request. I left. 5/7/2025 Spoke with another manager at the dealership. Explained the situation. Was told I could bring the car in for a battery test for free. I declined because I didn't want to purchase a battery or other services from the dealership at potentially higher cost than a don-dealership mechanic. 5/8/2025 Brought car to local mechanic. Battery test performed, cranking/starter test performed. Both were in normal ranges. I did not receive any other service at the mechanic. Approx 1/2024 stopped using the auto-idle stop feature due to feeling unsafe at stop lights. Occassionally, when auto-idle goes off then restarts the car feels like it is struggling to restart and dashlights briefly dim. I now manually turn off this feature each time I drive. These problems have been reported to the dealership, Holler Honda. The problems have not been reproduced or confirmed at the dealership because they have only happened twice. The vehicle has not been inspected other than during recalls and oil changes. No warning lamps or messages have appeared.

There were no warning light, malfunction errors or anything prior to 1/4/2025. My passenger seat weight sensor was supposedly finally replaced on 4/9/2025 (I kept being turned away due to the part not being available), but it is still not working, as it is not illuminating/communicating with the dashboard appropriately. I told the dealer this the same day and they said it was late in the day so I had to bring it back. I went back to the shop twice and the second time they kept my car for 5 hours and said they couldn’t figure out why it’s not working so I would have to go back to the collision shop from 1/9/2024 to see if it is a wire or air bag issue. I got in my car and noticed that now the passer seat belt alarm is on so I took it back. They told me they can’t keep examining my car and I would have to pay for a full diagnostic test to see why the seat belt alarm and weight sensor is not working. I kept going back and forth with them that this is a safety issue and it needs to be fixed and I should not have to pay for this because at least the seat belt alarm was working before I went to them on 4/29/25. I also asked for a supervisor and was told no one was available and I would have to come back a 4th time. I left and instead of going back for who knows how long, I called the collision shop on 4/30/25 and have gone back and forth with them about finding out why my car is still not fixed. It is now 5/7/2025 and neither my passenger air bag sensor or seat belt sensor is working properly and the alarm is still beeping unless I lock the passenger seat belt. I do not trust the dealership and I am pissed off at the collision shop because no one seems to care that there are safety defects that are still not working correctly. I should also not have to pay for something that was out of my control and should have been done correctly the first time. I need some help now as this is an urgent matter and I do not feel safe or that my passenger will be safe in my vehicle.

There were no warning light, malfunction errors or anything prior to 1/4/2025. My passenger seat weight sensor was supposedly finally replaced on 4/9/2025 (I kept being turned away due to the part not being available), but it is still not working, as it is not illuminating/communicating with the dashboard appropriately. I told the dealer this the same day and they said it was late in the day so I had to bring it back. I went back to the shop twice and the second time they kept my car for 5 hours and said they couldn’t figure out why it’s not working so I would have to go back to the collision shop from 1/9/2024 to see if it is a wire or air bag issue. I got in my car and noticed that now the passer seat belt alarm is on so I took it back. They told me they can’t keep examining my car and I would have to pay for a full diagnostic test to see why the seat belt alarm and weight sensor is not working. I kept going back and forth with them that this is a safety issue and it needs to be fixed and I should not have to pay for this because at least the seat belt alarm was working before I went to them on 4/29/25. I also asked for a supervisor and was told no one was available and I would have to come back a 4th time. I left and instead of going back for who knows how long, I called the collision shop on 4/30/25 and have gone back and forth with them about finding out why my car is still not fixed. It is now 5/7/2025 and neither my passenger air bag sensor or seat belt sensor is working properly and the alarm is still beeping unless I lock the passenger seat belt. I do not trust the dealership and I am pissed off at the collision shop because no one seems to care that there are safety defects that are still not working correctly. I should also not have to pay for something that was out of my control and should have been done correctly the first time. I need some help now as this is an urgent matter and I do not feel safe or that my passenger will be safe in my vehicle.

There were no warning light, malfunction errors or anything prior to 1/4/2025. My passenger seat weight sensor was supposedly finally replaced on 4/9/2025 (I kept being turned away due to the part not being available), but it is still not working, as it is not illuminating/communicating with the dashboard appropriately. I told the dealer this the same day and they said it was late in the day so I had to bring it back. I went back to the shop twice and the second time they kept my car for 5 hours and said they couldn’t figure out why it’s not working so I would have to go back to the collision shop from 1/9/2024 to see if it is a wire or air bag issue. I got in my car and noticed that now the passer seat belt alarm is on so I took it back. They told me they can’t keep examining my car and I would have to pay for a full diagnostic test to see why the seat belt alarm and weight sensor is not working. I kept going back and forth with them that this is a safety issue and it needs to be fixed and I should not have to pay for this because at least the seat belt alarm was working before I went to them on 4/29/25. I also asked for a supervisor and was told no one was available and I would have to come back a 4th time. I left and instead of going back for who knows how long, I called the collision shop on 4/30/25 and have gone back and forth with them about finding out why my car is still not fixed. It is now 5/7/2025 and neither my passenger air bag sensor or seat belt sensor is working properly and the alarm is still beeping unless I lock the passenger seat belt. I do not trust the dealership and I am pissed off at the collision shop because no one seems to care that there are safety defects that are still not working correctly. I should also not have to pay for something that was out of my control and should have been done correctly the first time. I need some help now as this is an urgent matter and I do not feel safe or that my passenger will be safe in my vehicle.

TRANSMISSION SLOW TO ENGAGE FROM REVERSE TO DRIVE WHEN BACKING OUT OF DRIVEWAY. SO SLOW THAT ONCOMMING VEHICLE HAD TO STOP QUICKLY. RIDING AT ABOUT 30MPH ON A DOWNHILL GRADE THE TRANSMISSION IS CONFUSED AND IT FEELS LIKE IT CAN'T FIND A GEAR TO STAY IN THUS CAUSING MUCH DISTRESS TO DRIVER IT FEELS LIKE CAR IS BREAKING AND SURGING FOWARD WITH DRIVER HAVING LITTLE CONTROLL OVER SITUATION. REPORTED TO HONDA IN COMPLAINT AND WAS TOLD THAT IS THE WAY TRANSMISSION IS

The vehicle infotainment system froze. Several minutes later after driving, I pressed the brakes but they did not function. The vehicle would not stop and crashed into the vehicle in front of me. Emergency braking did not engage or otherwise show signs of activation. After turning off the car and dealing with the accident, I restarted the vehicle and the brakes and infotainment system operated normally.