2020 HYUNDAI IONIQ ELECTRIC

When approaching a turn, I let off the accelerator but the car didn’t stop accelerating. Instead, it gently kept accelerating. I applied the brakes and the car started slowing down but not at the same rate I was applying brake pressure. Therefore I floored the brakes to try coming to a complete stop. Sadly, the cars ABS system did not engage, half of the car hopped over the curb at about 20 mph. I was able to steer the car back onto the road where it finally came to a stop but acted like it wanted to keep going until full blackout power loss happened. The car was deemed a total loss by my insurance company American Family. Essentially, the vehicle malfunctioned causing the accelerator to stick which caused the car to be harder to control than designed. The car malfunctioned by not engaging the ABS system as well. There is a recall on this exact problem for the 2017-2019 model but not for my 2020 even though it was manufactured during that campaign. It all happened very quickly and I was very lucky this did not involve another vehicle.

When approaching a turn, I let off the accelerator but the car didn’t stop accelerating. Instead, it gently kept accelerating. I applied the brakes and the car started slowing down but not at the same rate I was applying brake pressure. Therefore I floored the brakes to try coming to a complete stop. Sadly, the cars ABS system did not engage, half of the car hopped over the curb at about 20 mph. I was able to steer the car back onto the road where it finally came to a stop but acted like it wanted to keep going until full blackout power loss happened. The car was deemed a total loss by my insurance company American Family. Essentially, the vehicle malfunctioned causing the accelerator to stick which caused the car to be harder to control than designed. The car malfunctioned by not engaging the ABS system as well. There is a recall on this exact problem for the 2017-2019 model but not for my 2020 even though it was manufactured during that campaign. It all happened very quickly and I was very lucky this did not involve another vehicle.

When approaching a turn, I let off the accelerator but the car didn’t stop accelerating. Instead, it gently kept accelerating. I applied the brakes and the car started slowing down but not at the same rate I was applying brake pressure. Therefore I floored the brakes to try coming to a complete stop. Sadly, the cars ABS system did not engage, half of the car hopped over the curb at about 20 mph. I was able to steer the car back onto the road where it finally came to a stop but acted like it wanted to keep going until full blackout power loss happened. The car was deemed a total loss by my insurance company American Family. Essentially, the vehicle malfunctioned causing the accelerator to stick which caused the car to be harder to control than designed. The car malfunctioned by not engaging the ABS system as well. There is a recall on this exact problem for the 2017-2019 model but not for my 2020 even though it was manufactured during that campaign. It all happened very quickly and I was very lucky this did not involve another vehicle.

Refill Coolant warning light intermittently signals EV battery coolant problem. Hyundai dealer in Fort Wayne, IN, topped off coolant. Andrew service representative was informed of two YouTube videos explaining recall due to defective coolant ASC1 that crystalizes and/or becomes sludgy. Video reported dealer changed old coolant with an upgraded coolant ASC2 number in a Hyundai Ioniq Limited 2020 Electric Vehicle 38 kw like my vehicle. Fort Wayne, Glenbrook Hyundai dealer has very little experience or training with EV vehicles, since they offered to change the engine oil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUs-YoGTMlw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCt6MEbaXCI are video links apparently from England due to British accent and Chippenham city mentioned in video. USA NHTSA should add this recall to USA Hyundai Ioniq 2020 38 kv EV's. Defective coolant could cause EV battery failure and potential fire due to overheating and electrical short circuits. The Refill Coolant warning light goes off indicating coolant is sufficient, even when no additional coolant was added.

the Hyundai ioniq 5 doesn't turn on its brake lights when you're using single-pedal driving, as shown in this youtube video: https://youtu.be/U0YW7x9U5TQ?t=97 these should be recalled because you can bring the vehicle to a complete stop without the brakes turning on

The regenerative brake system failed to operate as it normally does, and no indicator lights came on on the dashboard. This unexpected loss of braking force nearly caused me to hit the car in front of me. I had recently disengaged cruise control and was approaching a red light. I pressed my foot on the brake pedal and felt no response from the car. I lifted my foot and pressed again two or three times with no response, neither deceleration nor any change in the regenerative braking meter on the dashboard. I had to press the brake all the way to the floor before the mechanical brakes were activated. This loss of braking power greatly increased my stopping distance and I narrowly avoided hitting the car in front of me. Once the light turned green, I accelerated and tested the brakes again and everything seemed to be working fine, including the regeneration meter. No indicator lights of any kind came on during this incident. This occurred approximately a week ago. I have owned the car for approximately three weeks, and have not experienced any similar issues in the two weeks prior to the incident or in the week since. I have not yet taken it to the dealership as I would not be able to reproduce the issue for them. I will gladly cooperate with any inspection needed to better understand this issue.

This issue is easily repeatable, when braking if you hit a bump (pot hole, etc.) the braking power is greatly reduced & the brake pedal becomes almost impossible to push down to stop the car, making it very hard to stop even when not coming to an abrupt stop.

The traction battery on my Ioniq 2020 went bad after 3 months. The diagnostic panel warned me of an electric issue and the range dropped drastically. The dealer changed the battery no questions asked. My vin wasn't part of the recall. I wonder if the recall should have included a broader range of vehicles.

8-1-2020 HYUNDAI MOTOR AMERICA LETTER RECEIVED THAT ORIGINAL WINDOW STICKER HAD INCORRECT INFORMATION AND IS NOT EQUIPPED WITH BLIND SPOT AND REAR CROSS TRAFFIC COLLISION AVOIDANCE ASSIST SYSTEMS; HOWEVER THESE VEHCLES ARE EQUIPPED WITH BLIND SPOT AND REAR CROSS TRAFFIC COLLISION WARNING SYSTEMS. HOW MANY OTHER BUYERS WERE MISLED BY THE WINDOW STICKER AND SOLD A CAR WITH MORE EXTENSIVE SAFETY EQUIPMENT THAN WHAT THEY ACTUALLY RECEIVED? SHOULD HYUNDAI RECALL THE VEHICLE TO INSTALL THE DEVICES AS ADVERTISED AND SOLD OR REIMBURSE THE BUYERS FOR THE DIFFERENCE AND THE LESSER VALUE CAR SOLD? MY CAR WAS STATIONARY AND NO MALFUNCTION KNOWN YET, BUT LACK OF ASSIST FUNCTION MAKES THE CAR LESS SAFE THAN REPRESENTED WHEN SOLD TO ME. THE DEFICIENCY, ERROR NOTICE LETTER IS NOT DATED AND DOES NOT OFFER TO CORRECT THE MISREPRESENTATION OR REFUND THE COST OF INSTALLING THIS SYSTEM, AND DOES NOT OFFER TO INSTALL IT AFTER THEIR ERROR.